Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Federal Government Working To Remove Sovereignty of Sates (Taking them over)

From Activistpost.com

It has been reported that 46 states are on the verge of bankruptcy. Since states are constitutionally mandated to balance their budgets, and do not possess the ability to print money, they're finding themselves in a critically weakened position to challenge the Federal Government.

In our republic, states have sovereignty to create and enforce their own laws as long as they don't violate the U.S. Constitution. The Tenth Amendment gives states the freedom from Federal laws and regulations if they deem them to be unconstitutional.

The Tenth Amendment: which makes explicit the idea that the Federal government is limited only to the powers granted in the Constitution, is generally recognized to be a truism. States and local governments have occasionally attempted to assert exemption from various federal regulations, especially in the areas of labor and environmental controls, using the Tenth Amendment as a basis for their claim.

An oft-repeated quote, from United States v. Darby, 312 U.S. 100, 124 (1941), reads as follows:

The amendment states but a truism that all is retained which has not been surrendered. There is nothing in the history of its adoption to suggest that it was more than declaratory of the relationship between the national and state governments as it had been established by the Constitution before the amendment or that its purpose was other than to allay fears that the new national government might seek to exercise powers not granted, and that the states might not be able to exercise fully their reserved powers...(Source)

Recently, it seems the Federal government is overstepping their authority and infringing on the sovereignty of states. Furthermore, given that many broke states will most certainly require a Federal bailout to maintain their basic social structures, we can assume that the Feds will use that to impose even stronger controls.

The Federal government has clearly violated California state law regarding medical marijuana by raiding state-approved legal dispensaries and grow-ops. And now, Obama and company are suing Arizona to overturn their new anti-illegal immigration law, which is essentially a reiteration of the Federal law, just with plans to actually prosecute it.

Additionally, we have seen the steady erosion of the Posse Comitatus Act, which prohibits the use of the military for local law enforcement. Stories of active military and the National Guard helping local law enforcement on operations as routine as random traffic checkpoints and local crimes such as illegal gun and drug searches are becoming everyday news -- again a clear violation of the Tenth Amendment.

It is clear that the goal of Federal government is to centralize and consolidate control as much as possible. Liberty advocates have a growing concern that states teetering on the verge of bankruptcy will require Federal bailouts that will come with sovereignty-smashing strings attached. Based on the clear violations already exhibited by the Federal government, we can only assume that more centralized oppression is on the way.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Shadow living - Part 10 - The Alibi

So, you've finally gotten out of the night and back into base. The operation is over, right? Wrong. If an investigator catches you off guard, what then? If you were smart, you'd have an alibi ready to go. Rule 1 should always be considered when making an alibi.

The first major point in making an alibi is that you should never rely on other people to uphold it. In other words, don't say something like "I'm going on an operation tonight, if anyone asks where I was tonight, I was here playing videogames with you". This isn't necessarily because they aren't trustworthy, but they could get the story mixed up from yours, no matter how well rehearsed.

That brings us to the second point: fool anyone not directly involved into thinking you were at a certain place. Remember, what happens in the shadows, stays in the shadows. If you still live with you parents, then exit the house via a method they don't know about, such as a window. Make them think you are at home, asleep, and you have a bulletproof alibi. Try to avoid saying something like "I'm going to a friend’s house" because while you may have said that, nobody knows if you held your word.

Be clever. Go camping somewhere, with a bunch of operations equipment. As soon as you get somewhere, stash your camping stuff and throw on your ops gear. Then trek a couple miles somewhere and operate. Once done, return to camp, set up camp, and do just that for the remainder of your stay. If anyone asks, you were camping and it's obvious you were.

Let's say circumstances force you to rely on someone else. This is a rare situation, but one which should be addressed. For example, you come back into your house, and whoever was there knows that you left and snuck out the window. Lie, lie, lie. Tell them that you snuck out to go to a party. You'll get in a little trouble, but it beats the trouble you'd be in for doing operations. The same thing could be applied if you stayed out all night because of the police, you could say you spent the night at the party. Refuse to say where it was at. The reason is manifold - you could get a friend busted (never acceptable), and if certain people are called to make confirmations, the truth will emerge. Besides, it's either going to sound suspicious or a little too lame if you "rat" your friends out so easily. If you do not have a good lie, stretch the truth or leave out important details instead.

Before you even take one step outside, you need to decide what your alibis are going to be, because if you don't, you may lose a lot of freedoms. You need to make sure you can "prove" it, and that it doesn't come at the expense of valuable resources.

Shadow living - Part 9 - How to avoid getting caught when compromised

You fucked up, and now the boys in blue are on your ass! What do you do? First of all, you relax. Review Rules 8, 4, 2, and 1 - they all come into action here. First of all, you need to relax and analyze the situation. Are they using spotlights? If they are, then get out of there view. Don't try to get out of their reach, you won't be able to.

Are they sitting in their squad cars? If so, haul ass before it's too late, and make sure you do so where they can't see and track you. If they are coming after you on foot, it already is too late and you need to run now! If you know you can, outrun them until they quit the chase. This will only work in rural settings, as they can cut you off on roads. Remember to use your stealth. A good idea would be to run around corner, hide behind a lamp post, sneak back to the other side of the corner, and then run back from where you were. Do not, however, go to the point you were seen. There may be another officer there looking for dropped items. Another no-no is heading towards base. They may be able to cut you off, or track you there even if you get away. Give the police a run around.

Is there a K9 unit closing in? If so, it's time to run. Remember that there are two types of dogs - trackers and attack dogs. If they are leashed, you only need to outrun the owner, not the actual dog. Take off at a good run. If you can, run around in a normally populated area, like a parking lot, to throw the dog's senses off. Alternatively, in rural settings you can take to the fields and run around in overlapping patterns, confusing the dog. Remember that the chase is a game to the dog, and by making a game harder, you make it want to quit. Toss impediments in your path if it is close enough, anything that will make the dog want to stop. If worse comes to worst, you may have to decide if you are willing to kill the K9 unit. The decision will be based directly on your operation rewards.

Once you have broken loose from the police, stick to draws and areas that provide lots of cover. You can also go into the woods, but be sure you know where you are going. If you have a compass, you may need to use it. Also, you could try going as far as possible into the woods and camping somewhere for the night. Wherever you go, make sure you can hide in a moment’s notice.

What happens if you are inside of a building and are compromised? There are a few things you can do to evade the police and save yourself some time. The very first thing you should do is to lock the most likely doors leading to your location. This will keep the enemy at bay and give you more time to make your escape. Another thing you can use to keep doors shut is to use wedges to block them. If you have a screwdriver and some screws, you can also wedge screws between the door and the frame, making the door harder to kick in. You may also try placing a wedge beneath the door, then screwing the wedge into the floor. Good luck kicking through that!

The second thing to try is moving objects, such as desks and drawers, in front of doors, making them harder to break down. Remember to not spend too much time doing this, as chances are more police are on their way. Also, do not barricade yourself inside of the building unless you are using extreme force as it is a surefire way to get caught. If all police units are on their way inside the building, you may also try to hide where they cannot see you for sure near the entered door, then rush outside at the first chance you get.

The important thing to remember is that you need to get outside as soon as possible. Inside the building, there are limited places to go, and the police will search them swiftly.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010


By Chuck Baldwin

July 20, 2010


Among the limited duties of the US Government enumerated in the federal Constitution is Article. IV. Section. 4. "The United States shall guarantee to every State in this Union a Republican Form of Government, and shall protect each of them against Invasion." However, for several decades now, the federal government in Washington, D.C., has shown great ambition and propensity to engage in activities to which it was never authorized, and to ignore those responsibilities with which it is specifically charged. The responsibility of the federal government to protect each State against invasion is a classic example of the latter.

Can anyone deny that the states on the US southern border (California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas) are being invaded by an ongoing onslaught of illegal aliens (many of whom are violent and dangerous criminals)? Somewhere between 12 and 30 million illegals now reside in the US. The entire country is feeling the effects of this invasion, but the Border States are literally under siege. And not only does the federal government do nothing to protect the states against this invasion, it actively wars against states such as Arizona when they attempt to protect themselves. Yes, I am saying it: the Washington, D.C., lawsuit against the State of Arizona's immigration laws should be regarded as an act of war against the State of Arizona in particular and against the state’s general in principle.

Please consider what Arizona and the other Border States are dealing with. According to published reports:

*In Los Angeles, 95% of all outstanding warrants for homicide in the first half of 2004 (which totaled 1,200 to 1,500) targeted illegal aliens. Up to two-thirds of all fugitive felony warrants (17,000) were for illegal aliens.

• Some private reports state that 83% of warrants for murder in Phoenix and 86% of warrants for murder in Albuquerque, New Mexico, are for illegal aliens. These reports cannot be verified, of course, because the feds discourage law enforcement agencies from releasing such statistics.

• At any given time, up to 75% of those on the most wanted list in Los Angeles, Phoenix, and Albuquerque are illegal aliens.

• 23% of all inmates in LA County detention centers are "deportable."

• LA police estimate that violent gangs, such as MS-13 and 18th Street Gang, are "overwhelmingly" composed of illegal aliens.

To read one very enlightening testimony given before Congress by an expert on illegal immigration containing some of the above information (and much more), go here.

In addition, the Pew Hispanic Center (an organization friendly to all things Hispanic) reports that by 2007, "nearly one-quarter (24%) of all federal convictions" involve illegal aliens. And "among those sentenced for immigration offenses in 2007, 80% were Hispanic." The PHC went on to report that illegal Hispanics "represented 29% of all federal offenders."

Remember, too, that illegal aliens murder (on average) 12 American citizens EVERY DAY in the United States. That means illegals murder more Americans EVERY YEAR than in the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan COMBINED, TO DATE. Plus, illegal aliens who drive drunk kill an additional 13 Americans EVERY DAY.

At this point, I will not again chronicle the financial costs and job losses exacted upon the American taxpayers by these invading illegals.

Add to the above the blatant rhetoric and public statements of activists within radical Hispanic revolutionary groups such as La Raza that incessantly call for the "reconquista" of the southwestern United States, and one can easily discern that the invasion by (mostly) Mexicans in the US is much more than "poor people trying to find a better life." There is some of that going on, of course, but the invasion also includes violent criminal gang members, drug dealers, human traffickers, rogue government troops, and covert provocateurs who are attempting to destabilize US cities and states, promote crime and violence, disrupt honest elections, and even facilitate revolution against the American citizenry.

And what does the Barack Obama administration do? Instead of obeying the Constitution and helping to protect the State of Arizona (and the other Border States), it sues the State of Arizona for trying to protect itself. Again, by this action, has not Washington, D.C., declared war against the State of Arizona (and, by implication, the other 49 independent, sovereign states)?

Please understand: Arizona Governor Jan Brewer and her allies in the Arizona legislature are not only defending their State, they are working to protect every State in the Union. Very obviously, the line is being drawn in the sand against a federal leviathan that increasingly shows blatant disregard for not only its own responsibilities and duties, but for the rights and freedoms of the individual sovereign states, and for the American citizenry as a whole.

And for those misguided Christians and pastors out there who are prone to defend and facilitate this invasion of illegal aliens in the name of Christian compassion, I would like to remind them of the words of our Lord, who said, "Verily, verily, I say unto you, He that entereth not by the door into the sheepfold, but climbeth up some other way, the same is a thief and a robber." (John 10:1 KJV) Thus, our Savior plainly categorizes illegal aliens (or anyone who refuses to enter through a door--or across a border--honestly) as thieves and robbers. Unfortunately, many are also rapists, murderers, violent drug dealers, and slave merchants.

If Barack Obama had even a smidgen of honesty and integrity, instead of attacking the people of the State of Arizona for simply trying to defend themselves against a very real and dangerous foreign invasion, he would take seriously his responsibility to help protect them against this invasion, which Article IV. Section. 4. of the US Constitution clearly requires him to do.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Shadow living - Part 8 - How to leave the scene

Mission accomplished, it's time to haul ass. You need to get out of the objective area, and get back to base. Alternatively, you may have been compromised and need to scramble (Rule 9). Hopefully you listened to me and made all of your escape routes. This phase of the operation is just as critical as the rest. Just because you've left the operation area doesn't mean you're safe yet. Again, Rule 9 comes into play here. You may have been seen during entry, or you may have tripped a security system unwittingly. Either way, a search for a suspect may be taking place right now and you need to get the hell out of the night.

If you were not compromised on your way in, then your entry route is a viable route back to base. If you were, try to choose the fastest escape route available to you and take it if possible. If blocked, try the next fastest one, and work your way down until you can get out. Remember not to leave tracks leading to your base. Keep a cool head and work your way back to base, and get some sleep. You can try leaving false tracks leading in the wrong direction though, and proceed to base from there.

If you opted to wear regular clothing under your operation gear, you may choose to be bold and get back to your base using an inconspicuous approach. Remember that you could be associated with the crime still if seen. It's your choice. Personally I would rather stick to the shadows.

Another thing you should keep in mind are people watching you constantly. They may or may not call the police, instead trying to get you further into trouble. If you suspect this is the case, act normal, don't run in a panic. You want to make them thing they are still in control. Pretend to check around a corner or whatever it takes to get out of sight, yet make them think you'll return. As soon as you have done so, haul ass!

When returning to base, the important thing to remember is that the operation is barely half over. You might be excited and want to get back as soon as possible, but fight the urge. Remain calm and alert, stay hidden, and take as much time as you need getting back to base.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Shadow living - Part 7 - How to Get into an Area

The moment of truth has arrived. You have reached the place you are supposed to gain access to. More than likely, it is a house, a trailer, or an RV. There are numerous methods of getting inside. You'll have to decide what things you have access to.


Doors are the obvious method of entry, and thus you should use them as a last resort. Remember Rule 4! If you absolutely have to though, doors are almost a guaranteed way of gaining access to an area. When entering a door, keep door alarms in mind, as well as the noise caused by certain doors. Squeaky hinges could by silenced by oil, or if you wish to keep your load out smaller, you could always try muffling the noise with cloth.

Open the Door

Before you try anything, try to just open the door as is. Many times, doors will be unlocked by careless people, or maybe they just think nobody is bold enough to enter the building. There's no point in ended up like those people on America's Dumbest Criminals.

Picking the Lock

If you have the skill to do so, you may pick any locks that impede you. As there are numerous guides on how to do so, there is no use in me trying to teach you. It is quiet, and so long as you don't make loud noises, you should have as much time as you need to open the lock. Do this if you have the skills and equipment needed.

Push the Bolt In

A lot of frames you'll encounter are cheap wood, so you can chip away just enough with a flathead screwdriver (remember what I said about them in "The Gear"?). From there it is simply a matter is sliding the screwdriver in and pushing the bolt towards the knob, thus allowing the knob to turn and open the door.

An alternative method is available if you can somehow get a shoelace on either side of the bolt and work the lace down to where the knob will turn. Isn't as reliable as the screwdriver method but it's on the table.

Pry the Door Open

Another use for your screwdriver. Place it between the door and the frame, then pry the door open. Pry from the bottom, and keep shimming the door further and further open with whatever you can. Eventually the door will open, producing a loud pop. It's loud, but doesn't do too much actual damage to the door or frame. Crowbars, pry bars, and shovels are superior to a screwdriver, obviously. You can also get more prying power out of a screwdriver by sliding a pipe over the existing handle to extend it.

Drill the Lock

Guaranteed method of bypassing locks. Drill just above the opening so that you destroy all of the pins. After the final pin is destroyed, you can open the door.

Ram the Door Open

If the door swings in, you can always try ramming it. This will also produce a loud noise, and is harder to do sometimes than prying. Ram in the center of the door with your shoulder, as it produces more force than kicking. This relies on having a weak frame, lock, or door. Careful with cheap doors however, as you may go right through it, creating a huge racket along with clearly seen evidence. If you know for sure that the frame is weak, you can also try kicking the doorknob.

Unlock the Door from Inside

In order to do this, you'll need to create a hole in the door. If there is a window, break it and unlock the door. Mind you that this is also a loud method, and not only that, it causes damage and evidence. Use only when all options are spent.

Unlock the Door from Outside

If you can get a hold of a key, by all means use it. Look under door mats, by mail boxes, on sills, under pots, anywhere one might be hidden. If the keys are to a large building, duplicate it as soon as possible as they may change the locks. With vehicles, try searching around wheel wells, bumpers, and pick-up beds for magnetic key holders.

Unhinge the Door

If the door swings outside, you may be able to remove the pin hinges and move the door entirely. Place a screwdriver between the pin and hinge, hammer upwards, and remove. Work slow and carefully so as to not create too much noise. You may wish to replace the door later, but do so only if the time warrants it. A pry bar or crowbar can also get the job done, obviously.

Unscrew the Door

Some doors which lead into cheap trailers, cabinets, etc, are held in place by hinges which can be unscrewed from the wall from the outside... I don't know why either but I've seen it. Don't count on it, but be grateful if this good fortune comes to you.

Fold the Door

If you are really getting desperate while trying to open up an RV for some strange reason, it may please you to know that the doors are usually simple wood and fiberglass sheets. As such, they can be bent rather easily. Fold the bottom half upwards, and crawl in using the gap you make. You can grab the bottom after prying it out a little using any prying tool before bending. This creates awful noise and evidence, but if you are in the middle of nowhere, it may work.

Cut the Lock/Hasp

If the door is locked up by a padlock, you then have the option of cutting the lock. You can do this with either a hacksaw or a bolt cutter will work. A bolt cutter is faster and makes less racket, but a saw is lighter. If you are using a bolt cutter, you can dampen the noise by wrapping a cloth (wet if possible) around the head before cutting the lock. Also, if there is a hasp you can attack with the cutters, attack it instead as they are almost always easier to cut than the actual lock. Same applies with a hacksaw.

Finding Combos

Not all doors are held shut by a pin and tumbler style lock. Some use combo panels that force you to enter the correct numbers before opening the door. First of all, forget opening it up and connecting wires together, it doesn't work that way. These days the panels are computer controlled, so the right combo is necessary. The best way to do this is by using graphite dust on the panel. Just put a pile in the palm of your hand. Then blow the powder onto the panel. The dust will then stick to any fingerprints showing you the last buttons pressed. There is a slim chance the numbers will be off, but it can happen. In any case, start punching in the possible combos until it unlocks, it shouldn't take long. Also, be sure to clean up the dust when you are finished.

The alternative is to monitor the panel somehow, using powerful optics and positioning yourself so that you can view the panel well. You'll probably have better luck on the right side of the panel since most people are right handed, and you'll be able to get a clearer view. You may even be able to do this in the daytime by sitting in a car with binoculars. Make sure cameras or pedestrians can't see what you are doing though.

When you open the door, remember to get inside and shut it immediately. An open door in the middle of the night is suspicious and may cause a person to call the police if seen. Also, remember to keep it unlocked until you leave, should you need to hurry back through it. If the lock is undamaged, lock the door again on your way out. Remember to leave everything as you found it whenever possible.


The great thing about windows is that they seem to take lower priority than doors. Shock sensors may exist and should be watched for, but generally windows are forgotten in the line of security. For most homes anyhow. As such, they should be your first place to try accessing the building. If there is a screen in the way, you can probably pop it out entirely with a screwdriver, or simply tear it out.

Open the Window

Again, try this before anything. Try to just open the window, it may very well be open, especially in summer.

Pry the Window Open

Take a screwdriver and try popping the cheap lock. It will make some noise, but it usually works. You can fix the lock inside if you are undetected and want to remain so.

Unscrew the Window

Many windows on RVs, trailers, and even some cheaper homes have the screws on the outside so that you could simply unscrew the window from the wall and remove it. It takes a little time, but makes no noise, and can always be set back into place if time allows.

Break the Window

If all else fails, put a damn rock through the glass. Works every time, but is loud and leaves evidence. You can make this method quieter by taping a corner of the glass and tapping it a hammering tool (butt of your field knife works great) then slowly pushing the glass. If you plan on simply shattering the glass, aim for the center where the window is weakest.

Cut the Window

Using a glass cutter, you can cut through the glass. This makes a nasty scratching sound though, so only use it when noise isn't an issue. Suction cups will allow you to remove the cut section of glass easier and quieter, but take up more room.

Miscellaneous Entry

Sometimes the best method of entry isn't always the obvious one. These places are not only unexpected, they usually have little if any security precautions.


These are your next options. Vents may be tunnels that are big enough to enter, or they may be removable. The latter is almost always an option on RVs. Climb on top, unscrew the vent lid, and you'll be able to drop into it's bathroom. There is generally a metal slide in your way that needs to be removed first. It can be cut, or carefully detached.

Ceiling Entry

You may be able to find removable slats, which can be removed. Then you can climb up into them and get onto the other side of walls. A rare find, but effective.

Floor Entry

Some buildings have hatches that allow you to go underneath of the houses for maintanence. From here you may be able to saw a hole in the floor to gain access. Only reasonable if the reward is worth it. Be mindful that underneath the building there may be dangerous animals. Slightly experimental.

Wall Entry

This method is admittedly bizarre. The idea is to open up a wall then just go through it. One method may involve removal of metal sheets as described in "The Gear". The Animal Liberation Front is also known to drill holes in mortar outside of cinder bricks to loosen them, then remove large portions of cinderblock walls.

Slow, somewhat noisy, but doable. Experimental method, do it at your own risk. I should add that the idea seems more feasible than you'd think, because mortar is drilled like butter most of the time, so drilling all of the holes wouldn't take too long (two minutes per brick would seem reasonable). Even a hand-cranked drill will work good in this case.


Once in the building, may need to get inside of a file cabinet. The locks on these are generally easy to pick. In fact, there is a 50/50 chance that you can do so with your screwdriver. If all else fails, you can pry the thing open with it instead.

Security Measures

Only the foolish would assume a building has no security measures. You may decide to run a recon operation on a building for the sole purpose of identifying it's security measures. If the systems are unidentified, the general rule is that the better the building, the better the security. Here are common security installations you will run across on operations, what their dangers are, and how to defeat them.


These are great. Building owners often display their security systems proudly on their windows to ward off any would-be burglars. This actually benefits you, because now you know what you are up against. Always look for these when reconning a potential target. You can then look up that security company online and look at their product features! By doing so, you'll find the weaknesses of specific systems, which will allow you to slip in unnoticed. Be aware that sometimes places falsely display these just to scare people off. There may be no security, but don't forget Rules 10, 9, and 7.

Passive Infrared Sensor

PIR Sensor for short, these are the sensors that detect body heat. They are fairly common, and connect to the main security panel. If you walk past them, they will notice you. The trick here is to either blind the sensor, fool the sensor, or quiet the sensor. Keep in mind that most sensors have a ninety degree view.

The first thing to try is to blind the sensor. This can be done by sliding along the wall it is on, then either spraying it with metallic paint, foam, or placing metal taping on it. If you do so, you should try to get any of them as thick as possible on the sensor. You can also grab a nearby fire extinguisher and spray it down if possible. You can also place tin foil around the sensor if you can't find paint, tape, foam, or whatever. Remember that metal blocks the sensor.

The second option is to fool the sensor. This is rather tricky. First of all, forget trying to walk slowly, it doesn't work. The only way to do this is to wrap yourself in a fire blanket. Those make noise and shine, but can trick the sensor, although it is pretty impractical. Alternatively, you could just get without of sensor range if possible.

The final option is to cut the wires to the thing. This prevents the sensor from sending a signal. You'll have to slink along the wall to get close. This may seem to be the obvious choice, but don't get your hopes up. Many security systems will automatically sound an alarm if it's sensors are cut. As a general rule, if the system looks new, don't tamper with it.

The average range for a sensor is about thirty feet, some extend farther. A safe distance would probably be forty feet.

PIR Lighting

A common outdoor nuisance is PIR lighting. These are the lights that turn on if you move around in front of them thanks to a PIR sensor, and will draw attention to you during operations. There are two targets for defeating a PIR light - the sensor and the light bulbs. Unlike a security sensor however, these can usually be severed from their power source without sounding an alarm. Be aware that, while rare, some double as an alarm sensor.

What makes these even easier than a security sensor however, is that they can be defeated by rendering the lights useless. There are several ways to do this.

The first is to physically bust the light bulbs. You can do this at range with a pellet gun or a rock, but a pellet gun is recommended. That's because if you miss with a rock, it will sound like a bell hitting the light housing. You can also ride the wall to it and bust the bulbs. This is best done by holding your field knife in front of the sensor and tapping the bulbs with something. Be sure you tap as I said, because if you are using an all metal tool, then you run the risk of electrocuting yourself.

The second is to unscrew the light bulbs. This is convenient, as you can come back and screw them back in later, leaving no evidence. To do so, act like you are going to tap with bulbs with something. Instead, once your knife blade is blocking the sensor, unscrew the bulbs.

The third is to block the light with something. This can be thick cloth, or you can spray the bulbs black. This won't totally eliminate light output, but it should lower it enough as to create less of an attraction.

Shock Sensors

These are the nasty little things that are placed on windows, as well as cars. When the sensor is bumped hard enough, it sends out the alarm. Like all sensors, there is a chance that when cut from the panel, the alarm will automatically be sent. Mind you they can also be installed onto doors.

Since there is no way to "blind" a shock sensor, the only thing you can do is avoid setting it off. Treat it like highly volatile explosives, one little bump could blow the operation. As long as you do not bump anything, these will not go off. You can touch the area right next to them and slowly lean into the sensor with no consequence. If you must go through a window with one of these in it, do not open, pry, bump, or break the window. Your best bet in such a situation would be a glass cutter, if the noise isn't a problem. If possible, just avoid these.

Laser/Photoelectric Sensors

A little more exotic, these aren't found in many places due to their price tag. Still, where they are found they are difficult to mess with. Basically, if you break the laser beam, you trigger an alarm. As far as I know, there is no way to safely disable this alarm, you can only avoid them. The lasers are invisible, so you'll need help finding them. If you suspect a laser sensor is in the area, use something to create a mist such as an inhaler. The laser will become visible as the light refracts from the water.

Pressure Pads

These are sensors that activate when enough weight is put onto them. These aren't too common, but are still used for some buildings. They are commonly found under floor mats and carpeting surrounding doorways, maybe even windows in some higher security buildings. The best thing to do if you have good reason to think there is a pressure pad around, is to avoid stepping in these areas. You can also pry around with your field knife as though searching for mines, but the process would prove slow and difficult, not to mention leave evidence. Do so only if the reward is worth it. Just remember not to jab the actual sensor.

Control Panel

The heart of every security system, this is the electronic box that connects to its sensors. When a sensor sends it a signal, the panel turns on the alarm and almost always sends a signal to the local security company, who in turn contact the police.

This panel can be defeated in two ways. The first, more crude method is to simply smash the panel. So long as there is no remote panel, this will disable the system completely. Just smash the thing a few times with your knife handle. If there is a remote panel, the alarm will still be active.

The second is a little more difficult, but leaves less evidence. Bring graphite dust with you, put a pile into your hand, and blow into the panel. The graphite will be stuck to any recent fingerprints, giving you the numbers used. From there you should be able to punch in the combo in less than a minute with the given numbers. Just make sure the alarm doesn't threaten to sound if you get the wrong combo a certain number of times.

Remote Panel

A secondary control panel, found in some newer security systems. This keeps the alarm system active even if the main control panel has been destroyed. Defeated the same way as the main control panel.

Phone Line

Relevant to security because the signal to the security company is sent via phone line. Some more sophisticated systems actually use cellular signals, but these are usually found in more expensive establishments. This line may be cut, thus blocking the signal, but doing so may alert the security company, depending on the alarm system. Trying to take over the line be making a phone call will not work on modern systems.

Concerning cellular signals, if you know the system is cellular based, why not try to block the signal with a "magic bag"? It's an untested idea, but may work. Don't forget Rule 3 though.


Also relevant, because electricity is what runs the security systems. You may try to flip the circuit breaker if you have access or cut the power line with an insulated cutting tool, but be warned in doing so that it may alert the security company, or the control panel may simply have a battery back up. Useful if there are cameras but no alarms, but not much else.

Video Cameras

These come in many varieties, including the common black and white, color, and infrared. The can also transmit wirelessly, or by hardwire. These can be defeated in several ways, but mind you that they should only be tampered with if the camera is not actively watched by a guard, instead being recorded onto tape, and you know it is not a CCTV camera.

The first method of defeating a camera is to destroy the lens. This can be done by either shooting it with a pellet gun, or smashing it up close. If you want to remain entirely off camera, be sure to destroy the lens out of sight or sneak up from behind it. If the camera is one that rotates left and right, just rush it when it turns. Some cameras also have IR sensors (CCTV) which, when they see you, will draw the camera to you and/or sound an alarm. In this case, you must sneak up to the camera from out of view, and only destroy if you know it is not attached to an alarm system.

The second method of defeating a camera is to blind the lens. This is rather simple. You can hit it with paint, foam, fire extinguisher, tape it, cover it with a garbage bag, force it into looking at the wall, whatever. Again, if you wish to remain off camera totally, sneak up from out of view and do this. Also, forget paintball guns. Garbage bags may be optimal as you can remove them later if you wish, eliminating evidence.

Another way of blinding a camera is through the use of a laser pointer. Yes, this actually works. Some cameras, however, can filter out the effect somewhat, making you visible again. The best possible set-up would be a stand that can hold and aim three lasers - one green, one blue, and one red. If you wish to use lasers, imitate this set up as closely as possible.

The third method is to cut the power/video feed. Again, sneak up from out of view, then simply cut the wire. When doing so, keep in mind that this may activate the alarm if it is integrated.

What's important to remember about cameras is that they aren't any good if they cannot identify you. You may wish to put on a disguise inside of a building and when around cameras. Remember what you see on TV - cameras not only capture your face, but your skin color, your shoulder width (gender), height, size, hair, and how you walk. Change these up as best as possible, and the camera is of no concern. Besides, if you take something, it's not like defeating the camera will cover it up, they will know anyways.

Camera Domes

These are a little more tricky than single cameras. Again, they come in a variety of styles, and may or may not be actively watched, but even the black and white models are trickier than a single IR camera.

Camera domes can be seen in large stores and buildings on the ceilings as large, dark domes. Inside of each dome lays three or four cameras, getting a 3D view of it's surroundings. In short, you are up against multiple cameras, with a layer of protection.

Defeating these would be hard. For one, you cannot sneak up to them. They are also too tall to be able to smash or spray with paint. There are still a few methods open to you however.

Method one is to destroy the cameras. If you can see through the dome, you can target the lens of each camera and shoot them out with a pellet gun. You may also be able to shatter the dome or blow pieces off of it by using a pellet gun, then blind all the cameras. This method would be tough, and is not recommended. The good news is that since they are so hard to reach, there is a small chance of having a tamper alarm.

The second method is to cover the entire dome. You can do this by using long reaching foams, or by using a fire extinguisher.

If possible, instead try to find the tapes and destroy them, or just alter your appearance as much as possible.


These are where the cameras report to. You might be able to trace cameras back to the room that these are in if the cameras are hardwired. Rest assured, where there are cameras, there is something recording what they view.

When you find the tapes these are being recorded on, you can either steal them, destroy them, or try to mess with the content using a powerful magnet if one is around.

If the monitors are being watched by a guard, there is not much you can do short of drawing the guard out of the room.

Driveway Sensors

People place these at the head of driveways and walkways to detect people when they pass through the sensors. They either come in a pair, or just a single sensor. Single sensors are simple motion detectors, while the ones in pairs will indicate a photoelectric system. Stay completely away if you only see one sensor, as these things will go off if so much as a weed blows in front of them. Photoelectric sensors will only sound an alarm of course if you break the beam.

These are almost always mounted on poles, which a person passes by to go somewhere. They are rarely hidden. Remember Rule 10 though, you never know. If you see one or two suspicious poles with the driveway leading between them, avoid the driveway and cross a fence elsewhere.

Door Sensors

These are the annoying of the annoying. That's because there is really nothing that can be done about them. If the door is opened and this device is turned on inside, the alarm goes off. It doesn't matter how or who opens the door, the alarm will sound. If you know or think one of these might be attached, then avoid the door completely until the control panel has been defeated. Rule 4 also comes into play here.

Security Guard

The human element of security. It may or may not be armed with a weapon, so be alert. The old tricks such as tossing rocks to distract him can still work. Just don't be obvious about it, like tossing rocks into a metal roof, or the guard will probably know somebody is throwing rocks.

What makes guards difficult yet easy at the same time is that they are all different, and they all have human habits. Guards in small stations, for example, probably sit around playing and munching on snacks until somebody approaches in a dead obvious manner.

The best strategy to defeat a guard is to observe what he is doing for a few minutes, and slip past him. Avoid passing by on rounded minutes such as X:00, X:15, X:30, and X:45 as these are likely times for him to get up and move around.


Man's best friend is man's worst enemy in the shadows. You usually don't have to worry about being attacked, but the noise they make is incredible. The first and obvious thing you should try to do is be silent to avoid them. If that doesn't work, you can try to pacify them. Drop to a knee and try to call it to you, make friends with it. If it still sits there and barks, you can try to pacify it with a stick or meat if some is around. If that still does not work, try to scare it off somehow, or say "No!" firmly. If all else fails, you have three options: kill, silence, or leave.

I won't describe how to kill it, since it should not only never need to be done, but it should be obvious how to do. To silence it, nail it with a stun gun, slam it to the ground and tape it's mouth shut, kick it hard in the jaw, whatever. Be advised that all of these are easier said than done, and most methods will cause the dog to yipe, which is more alarming than it's bark. The third option, leave, should be done if the reward is not worth dealing with the dog.

Should the dog attack, you must quickly take something and wrap it around your less-used arm. Hold the arm out so the dog bites it, then either strike it in the face with something, a stun gun, or ram your knife into it's gut and let the dog slide down the knife. I've personally never had to do this, but it seems to be the taught method. If the dog is a small one and attacking, just give it a good kick.

There are other variables to consider. Perhaps the dog barks at everything to the point that the owner doesn't mind it anymore. In this case, you should sit back and observe what happens. If nothing becomes of the barking, just ignore it and proceed as planned.

A good resource online includes police suggestions to citizens. PDFs can readily be found on the web that describe recommended places for security measures, what to use, and when to use them. Studying up on these will give you an edge over not just common home security, but you'll be able to stray out of the common criminal profile, confusing potential investigations.

When you finally get into the area you need, be sure you have a way out that's fast and close by. Unlock all doors, disable all security features, and make you are haven't been spotted. This gives you a comfort zone, which reduces stress inside the operation area. That way you don't get overexcited and forget important details during your operation.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

How long before this happens in CA

How soon before this happens in CA?????????

How many more cops and civilians need to be murdered before enough is enough?

Empty Food Store Shelves are coming - from Survivalblog.com

July 13, 2010

Empty Store Shelves Coming to America

The National Inflation Association today issued a warning to all Americans that empty store shelves will likely be coming to America as a result of government price controls during the upcoming hyperinflationary crisis. This morning, NIA released a video preview of what hyperinflation will look like in the U.S. This extremely important must see video is now available on NIA's video page.

NIA's six-minute video released today goes into detail about an event that took place just outside of Boston, Massachusetts in May of this year. This story was widely ignored by the nationwide mainstream media, but NIA believes it was one of the most important news events of the first half of 2010. Although this particular crisis in Boston was due to decaying infrastructure, NIA believes a currency crisis will lead to the same type of panic on a nationwide basis.

NIA hopes that this video serves as a wake-up call for Americans to take the necessary steps to prepare for hyperinflation and become educated about the U.S. economy. In Zimbabwe during hyperinflation, Zimbabweans were forced to transact in gold and silver. It's only a matter of time before the U.S. dollar becomes worthless and the only Americans with wealth will be those who own gold and silver.

Citizens of Boston were able to survive their recent crisis with the help of the National Guard, but the National Guard won't be there for Americans during hyperinflation. 40.2 million Americans are currently living off of food stamps, but food stamps won't have any purchasing power during hyperinflation. The United States' day of reckoning is ahead. We cannot go on living with record budget deficits and accelerating national debt growth forever.

Just yesterday it was announced that for the first time ever, a major credit ratings agency has given China a higher credit rating than the U.S. While most credit ratings agencies including Moody's, Standard & Poor’s and Fitch Ratings still rate U.S. debt as AAA, NIA believes the real credit rating of the U.S. should be junk. The only way one could possibly justify a U.S. credit rating of AAA is by taking into account the Federal Reserve's ability to monetize our debt through inflation. However, printing money to pay off debt is a lot worse than defaulting on it. Inflation is very deceptive, it destroys the value of savings while transferring wealth from the poor and middle class to the rich.

The U.S. has a budget deficit just from Social Security, Medicare and Medicaid alone. NIA urges President Obama to implement dramatic cuts to these entitlement programs immediately, while simultaneously reducing the size of government across the board. Time is growing short for Obama to rein in government spending. The longer Obama waits to reverse course, the harder it will be for the U.S. to recover from the calamity that is about to unfold.

Please forward this message to everybody you know. It is essential to the well-being of all your family members and friends that they watch our new video entitled "Empty Store Shelves Coming to America" by going to: http://inflation.us/videos.html ( PLEASE WATCH THESE VIDEOS and TELL YOUR FRIENDS ABOUT THEM)

Please continue to spread the word about NIA by telling your friends and family to subscribe for free.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

How to organize a resistance movement

If you agree that life, liberty, and property should be the right of every citizen, then you probably already realize that surveillance and suppression by government goon-squads is incompatible with these three basic human dignities.

Getting involved

Organizing and activating your own resistance movement can be an exciting and rewarding experience – especially if you yearn to do something meaningful about the unfairness you observe around you every day.  Like the heroes and heroines of the American revolution, you may choose to answer the call to idealism and sacrifice.  If you love your country but fear your government, becoming an underground activist may give you the mechanism you need to start making a difference.

Becoming aware

As the saying goes, freedom is sustained by three boxes – the ballot box, the jury box, and the ammo box. Unfortunately, more and more concerned citizens are becoming increasingly alarmed by what they see as the dangerously weakened condition of the ballot box and the jury box.

Reliable sources

The article you are reading is based on information obtained from our contacts in a number of resistance movements. The information in the article is also based on official counter-insurgency training manuals leaked by our contacts in intelligence agencies and security services.

This article is intended as an introduction to organizing and activating a resistance movement.
Please note that I do not endorse, recommend, or suggest that you commit any illegal act. This article is provided for information, education, entertainment, and research purposes only.

Step 1: Create your commando...

1. Become focused. Get a sense of direction and purpose. Create a leadership team. Develop a strategic plan, an order of battle, or a manifesto. Start building the commando leadership cadre. As the saying goes, plan your work and then work your plan.

2. Become invisible. Go underground. Create an identity that cannot be traced, located, or discovered by the authorities. Adopt a nom de guerre. Become independent by being self-funding and self-supporting. You can continue to live your normal life if you wish, but you must have an underground persona for your resistance work. Your normal life can provide cover for your underground life.

3. Set up communications. Establish secure methods for one-way communications. You'll need to communicate with the population, with the media, with the authorities, with other cells, and with other resistance movements. Set up anonymous cyber-cafe email accounts. Set up dead-letter boxes in your neighborhood. Acquire anonymous prepaid calling cards for telephone communications. Develop skills in elliptical conversation.

4. Recruit members. The longer you've known them, the better. Encourage them to establish cells. Whenever a cell has more than ten members, divide the cell. Then form circles from groups of cells. Appoint circle leaders. Communicate with the circle leaders (but also maintain some direct links to individual cells for sensitive operations). Form sections from groups of circles. Appoint section leaders.

Each person in the general population will fall into one of six possible categories – activist, supporter, sympathizer, undecided, collaborator, or traitor.

Step 2: Become active...

1. Begin propaganda. Inform your cells about the misinformation campaigns of the authorities. Also inform the general population. The authorities will spread lies about you, about your group, about your motives, and about your actions. This is standard operating procedure for a corrupt and repressive government.

2. Begin defensive operations. Assist persecuted persons by warning them, by hiding them, or by providing escape routes. You can also assist persecuted persons by publicizing the repressive actions of the government's goons. Expect the goons to react.

3. Begin political operations. Inform the general population about how to behave towards the authorities. For a typical resistance movement this may include civil disobedience, non-fraternization, protest, non-cooperation, and so on. Each person in the general population will fit a profile – activist, supporter, sympathizer, undecided, collaborator, or traitor. A government's terror campaign of no-knock warrants, confiscation of property, national ID cards, secret internment camps, corrupt officials, etc. will move people's attitudes along this continuum. Most people will start out undecided – you want to convert these people into sympathizers, supporters, and activists.

4. Begin counterintelligence operations. Isolate informers, agent-provocateurs, moles, passive-aggressive types, toadies, collaborators, cowards, honeypots, and so on. Ostracize these individuals so they cannot damage your resistance movement. Instruct the general population to shun these individuals. Distribute their identities and modus operandi to all cells.

Step 3: Begin guerrilla operations...

1. Go on the offensive. This may involve lawful action like protest, civil disobedience, tax resistance, a letter-to-the-editor, work slowdown, embargo, consumer boycott, agitation, silent non-cooperation, noisy non-cooperation, unprovable minor acts of sabotage disguised as oversight or accident, ostracizing employees of government agencies, setting up alternative self-sufficient communities, and so on. In addition, however, a typical resistance movement in today's world often undertakes unlawful operations like terror, sabotage, assassination, and seccession.

2. Enforce cooperation. A resistance movement will often need to use counterterror to intimidate traitors, collaborators, and informers. The goal is to make it dangerous to cooperate with the authorities.

A typical successful resistance movement goes through phases –
passive resistance, active resistance, guerrilla warfare, open insurrection, and civil war.

About your long-term strategy...

According to the official counter-insurgency training manuals of various intelligence agencies and security services, a successful resistance movement always follows the same sequence of events.

First comes passive resistance. This eventually leads to active resistance, which in turn leads to guerrilla operations. This escalates to open insurrection by insurgents – which inevitably results in civil war.

This process can be interrupted at any stage by a government willing to make concessions to the population. Unfortunately, however, the antisocial bureaucrats behind repressive governments are rarely willing to compromise on their policies.

Strategic resistance. A typical resistance movement uses both active and passive resistance until the situation deteriorates to a point when urban guerrilla warfare can be initiated.

Guerrilla warfare. As the situation becomes more volatile, a typical resistance movement uses hit-and-run guerrilla tactics until open insurrection can be initiated.

Insurgency. As the government begins to lose control of significant elements in the country, a typical resistance movement will use the insurrection to provoke civil war. It then uses civil war to force fundamental change in society.

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Shadow living - Part 6 - How to move during operations

You've finally gotten all the gear you need. Confident in your clothing and your equipment, you jump into the shadows. How do you actually get to your objective though? You can't expect to simply walk up to it. You need to learn the procedures for getting up close, unseen, and getting away without being caught.


Fences present a major problem to operatives in the shadows. They are often loud to cross, can snag equipment, and potentially harm you. They can also provide a few advantages however. Here are a few common types of fencing you will encounter, how to cross them, and what advantages they have.

Barbed Wire Fence

Perhaps the most annoying of all the fence types, barbed wire grabs onto clothes and gets it caught up. Any torn cloth left behind counts as evidence. They can also cut you open if you're really careless, leaving behind evidence. They are also loud in most places, squeaking and sagging when you try to climb across them. They are mostly found in rural settings.

The first method of crossing, and most obvious, is climbing. The first thing you need to look for is a rock jack. These are firmly secured to the ground, to the fence, and are quiet and easy to cross. If you cannot find one, you should next look for a wooden post secured into the ground and to the fence. These don't make a lot of noise either, and are simple to cross. If you still cannot find one, you then have to look for a steel post. Crossing here is loud, but secured. Should you find only loose wire crossable, you may be able to "step" over the wire by bending it down and crossing. If not, find another way to cross. If all else fails, toss something over the fence to block the barbs and flip over it. When climbing, take as much time as you can so that you don't snag your pants.

The second method of crossing is to crawl underneath of it. You may be able to bend the wires and crawl, or you may need to snip some wire. Snip the wire that holds the barbed wire to a steel pole so that the barbed wire is easier to bend around. Be careful that you don't stand so that a tight wire will whip across you. You could also try digging a hole and crawling under.

The third method is to simply jump over it. Find a suitable spot and just dive over it. Make sure you know you can pull it off though, no sense in racking yourself on barbed wire...

The fourth and final method is to just cut it. Only do so if you absolutely must cross the fence and no other method is open.

As far as advantages go, if you can cross these with swiftness, they are invaluable in warding off pursuers. Rock jacks can be laid behind to avoid people passing by from seeing you. Also, if you lay parallel against the fence on the ground, you're much less likely to be seen by passing vehicles.

Chicken Wire Fence

Chicken wire; the stuff with the rectangular or hexagonal holes in it, too small to put your feet into. This makes climbing difficult, and the fencing is usually loud to boot. Thankfully, you can't get snagged.

First method of crossing is to climb. This can be tough if the fence is taller than you since you can't hook your feet onto anything. The only way is to find a good pole and cross there. Don't grab the top and pull yourself up unless you know it's safe, as you may create a ton of noise.

The second method of cross is to crawl under it. Since you can't flex chicken wire that well, you'll probably need to snip some wire or dig a hole. Don't be as worried about snipping since doing so doesn't bring the whole section down like barbed wire.

The third method is to just cut a section through the fence and bypass. Least recommended, for obvious reasons.

Chicken wire offers the same advantages barbed wire does, except that they rarely have rock jacks.

Wooden Plank Fence

Wooden fences, while easy to bypass, are still troublesome. This is because it is hard to know what is on the other side. If you have to, do a pull-up on the fence and barely peek over before crossing the fence.

The first method of crossing is, once again, climbing. These are dead simple, just pull yourself up, swing your legs around, and land on the other side. If you need to be quiet, you can lean your body against the fence top and slowly roll over the other side. Just don't rack yourself. You can climb over anywhere thanks to the durability.

The second method of crossing is to go under the fence. You'll have to dig, since you can't bend wood. This is time consuming, consider whether or not it is worth it.

Wooden fences are also good to hide behind and recon from. You can also lay parallel on the ground next to them to make yourself harder to see to people who pass by.

Cyclone Fence

Cyclone, or chain link fencing, is extremely annoying to cross, because it is noisy as hell. Even further precautions must be taken when crossing a fence topped with barbed wire. What's more, there is nowhere to place your feet.

Method one of crossing is climbing. You must try to find a pole you can put all your weight on while you cross. If you cannot find a pole that lets you do this, then you'll have to cross right next to a pole. If you have more people around, have them hold the horizontal bar so it doesn't sag and squeak. You'll make a little noise, but not terribly bad. If the fence is taller than you are, then you'll have to pull yourself up the fence first, then toss yourself over. If the fence is extremely high, and you must climb, then you'll need to climb the wire using your hands. Also, if it is topped by barbed wire, you can either block the barbs with cloth, or cut the wire.

The second method is to crawl under it. Snip an/or dig. Be mindful that cyclone fences bend easily.

The third method is to jump the fence. Only applies is the fence is short enough to jump effectively.

The fourth method is a simple chop job - just cut through the fence.

Same advantages as a chicken wire fence.

Electric Fence

These are simple to bypass. Method one is to simply to drop metal on the wire that touches the post, shorting the electricity out. Method two is to find a way to shut the fence off. The switch should be easy to find. No real advantages here, unless you can find a way to use the wiring as a weapon and it's really needed as such.

Brick Fence

Brick fences are the best to have around. They make no noise whatsoever, and are simple to climb. You'll find these around schools and other public places.

Method one of crossing in to climb. Just pull yourself up and roll over it. If it's too high to jump and grab, you can get a running step off of the fence and reach up to the top.

Method two is to dig under the fence, like you would a wooden fence. Note that this will take up a lot of time, especially since there is probably a concrete base.

Same advantages as a wooden fence. You may also be able to get out of the line of sight by laying flat on top of the fence in a pinch.

Picket Fence

Easy to bypass, but offer little in the way of cover.

First crossing method is to climb over it.

Second crossing method is to dig under it and crawl.

Third method is to jump over it. Careful over pointy boards which may grab you.

Picket fences can also be broken though with ease sometimes, but there usually isn't a good reason too, if at all. To use them for hiding, lay flat against the ground next to them, parallel.

Assorted Objects and Terrain

There is virtually nothing you can find during an operation that can't be turned to your advantage in some way, no matter how little.


Trees won't generally be something that's in your way, but they can assist you in various ways. For example, a tree could offer a better way to cross a fence, recon an area, or get access to a rooftop. What a tree does not offer though, is an escape route. Never climb a tree is an attempt to escape pursuit. Climbing trees is usually simple. Just grab the first solid limb and start climbing up it. If you need to jump higher, try running at the tree and jumping off of it at waist height as you would a brick fence. You may also use a rope, then use it for decent. The general rule is that if you can climb the tree with nothing, than you can simply jump down from it. Hang from the bottom limb then drop to the ground, using a break fall if necessary.

Trees are good for hiding if you are not being pursued. You can climb up above, where people are unlikely to look, or you can hug the opposite side of the trunk. Also, sitting with your back to the trunk is perfect for long term hiding. Don't use during pursuit however, as you may get trapped.


Ditches are perfect for eliminating your profile. For recon, lay in them on your side. When hiding, lay face down. If the ditch is deep enough, you may be able to sit in it and keep a low enough profile. You may also be able to lay prone perpendicular to it and still have a low profile yet good view.


Dumpsters are great to hide in and behind. You can also hide in the shadows created where they meet walls.


Treat them like tree trunks.


Snow presents numerous problems as well as advantages. For one, it is easy to bury yourself in it to hide. You can also throw it to draw attention elsewhere, and snow makes it easier to see on nights with no moon. On the other hand, snow leaves tracks everywhere which anyone can see, is often loud to cross, and slows you down. It is best to avoid snow altogether, even when there are small patches on the ground.

A unique use for snow, when most has melted, is the snow plowed off of roads. They provide good cover prior to crossing the road.

Tall Grass

While tall grass may seem elementary, don't discount it. In this context, tall grass refers to any grass or weeds which are around two feet high. It's common just about everywhere, and has saved my ass personally on numerous occasions. If a car is coming, jump into some tall grass. If a person is walking towards you, crawl behind some. If there is a spotlight shining towards you, get behind tall grass. Tall grass is very useful.


Boulders make great cover, because they are big, dark, and uniform in shape. You can either hide behind them, hug them on the ground, or even lay on top of them sometimes to avoid being seen.


Even a little slope can help conceal you from a direction. Just lay near the top so you can barely see. If someone is looking around, you'll be very hard to spot.

Irrigation Pipes

Pipes that connect to each other that are used to water fields. Probably used at your local football fields. These offer some profile reduction by lying next to them, parallel.

Rivers and Streams

Water can offer some refuge. Instead of hiding in the water, use the noise created to cover up your own noises.


Hide yourself near them by jumping behind them or laying on the ground next to them.

Street Light

A nightmare in urban operations, these light up all main areas of town. There is no way to just shut them off short of destroying the town's power grid or destroying the light bulb. If you decide to destroy the bulb, a pellet gun is the only reasonable choice. Some lights are protected with a thick guard to stop this, so a high powered air rifle may be necessary. You can also hide on the side opposite of the light to hide decently well.


Sometimes an entire building is in your way, or perhaps getting onto the roof is the best way into another house, or maybe you need to get roof access. Regardless, there are good ways and bad ways to climb onto a building.

First lets deal with one story houses. Generally, were dealing with trailers and maybe some smaller houses. Sometimes you can jump up, grab the roof, then climb onto the top. This usually isn't a possibility though, as the overhang makes it too difficult. Several things to look for: trees, oil tanks, gas tanks, vehicles parked nearby, window sills, anything that will get you close. If all else fails, you may be able to find and use a ladder. Ropes are an option if you have one.

Second story houses and buildings are a bit tougher. If you can find a one-story section, start there. If not, you'll have to find something to climb. Look for the same things as a one-story section, then look for any gutters, pipes, or ladders attached to the building.

Anything larger and you'll have to hope for either an attached ladder, something to hook a rope to, or something else you could climb.

Hiding near a house is simple, you can hide near gas tanks, on or under porches, sit by the corner of a porch, behind grass, where ever.

Larger buildings must be climbed via pipe, wiring, a rope, etc. These cannot just be jumped off of obviously, so you need to make sure you always have a way back down.


Vehicles are easy to get around of course, but they are good for hiding behind, under, against, or in. Remember that most dome lights turn on should the door by unlocked. You can also utilize the noise created by them to cover up your own noise. Also, you want to make sure you don't do anything stupid, like hide from someone while exposing yourself to someone else. If you can't hide from everyone, don't bother.


That's right, even people can help your cause. If they are playing music or talking loud, it will not only cover up your noises, but will distract them away from anything else. You may also find some targets of opportunity. The reason they are hazards should be fairly obvious.

Hiding in Nothing

The shadows won't always offer you a place to run and hide. While the things listed above are universal, what if you find yourself in a football field, or a large open pasture a good distance away from any ditches? You need to hide right where you are. Do not take off for cover unless sighted. Rule 8 applies here.

The best thing to do most of the time, is to just lay on the ground, face down, head towards anyone approaching. You can look if you'd like by peering through the cracks in your hands. Otherwise, by mindful of the glare from your eyes. This has worked wonders for me.

You may also choose to imitate something close by, but not good for cover such as a tree, a cow, or a large rock. To turn into a tree, just hold your arms out crookedly, lean your head against a shoulder, and keep your legs together. To turn into an animal, get on your hands and knees and sit still. To turn into a rock, drop to your knees and hug your legs. Remember that you aren't trying to look as much like the object you are mimicing as you are trying to not look human. You would be surprised how well this works in the right situation.

Hiding in Light

Hiding in light means being in the right position in relevance to a source of light so that you can see others well, but they cannot see you. A good example is a person holding a spotlight into another person's face. The guy with the spotlight can see just fine, but the other one cannot see past the light. By doing do, the first person is actually using the light to hide. As an operative, the chance to hide behind light won't come often, and there are usually better alternatives. Sometimes however, you won't have a choice.

To hide in the light, you must hide in the shadows next to it. For example, if you stand between two windows that are lit brightly, a person outside would have a tough time seeing you from about 35 yards. Any closer and he may begin to see a human figure.

You can use this if confronted too, by shining your flashlight in the person's face. They won't be able to get a good look at you. You'll have a good chance to knock them down and escape, or just try to out run them. Don't try to depend on this as your main idea though, doing so only when all other options have been exhausted, as this is a last resort tactic.

In dealing with bright lights that go in several directions, place yourself between the light and anyone nearby. That makes the light hit your back, creating only a hard to see silhouette instead of lighting your front up making you easy to identify. The same thing applies with the moon - put yourself between it and anyone nearby. Be careful, however, that you do not cast shadows past corners, which may betray you.

Another way that light works to your advantage is when there is glass. When a person is inside of their house and they have the lights on, looking outside of their windows becomes very difficult. Unless they are pressed up against the glass, they will have a difficult time seeing past ten yards, if at all, as the glass and darkness outside work together to form a mirror.

Learning how to use light to your advantage is difficult, but it is an essential skill. When you learn to use it, you will become more confident and skilled at choosing hiding places.

Hiding in Darkness

When solid cover is not immediately available, and you cannot use light to your advantage, you must hide in darkness. Use the shadows and corners around you to conceal your outline.

Hide in areas behind where light is cast, or around them. Such areas are corners, underneath picnic tables, beside trees, and behind lamp posts. These shadows usually conceal you just enough to hide you if you remain still. The science behind the practice here is that it is harder to look into a dark place when you are in a light place and have been used to the lights for a long time.

If someone has been in the darkness for awhile, you can "create" darkness for them by attracting their attention to a bright source of light by tossing rocks. This will ruin their night vision, enabling you to use the shadows once again.

Hiding in a Room

If you are inside of a building, are in danger of being caught, and have no escape immediately available, you must hide somewhere. This is a very dangerous situation to be in, having many variables, so you must hide in the places least likely to be looked upon.


If you can cram into a ground level cabinet, you may do so. If somebody is getting up, they may look in top cabinets to get a cup. If someone is coming home late from something, they may also look in top cabinets for the same thing. The bottom ones, especially the one under the sink, are the least likely to be disturbed.


A common hiding place in the movies is the shower. If you hide in a tub with a curtain, hide behind the curtain and remain still and silent. You may move the curtain slightly, but try to make it look as much as it did when you entered. If the shower is a dark tinted shower, you have little to worry about, just stand inside, maybe crouched a little. If the shower is distorted clear glass, there are problems. You have to lay down and try to conform to the wall so that nothing appears to be inside.

Of course, none of this matters if someone decides to take a shower. You alone must decide whether the shower is a safe place. If you somehow know the person takes their showers before bed, do not hide here.


Another common hiding place is underneath of a bed. The problem here is that if someone is already in bed, or is going to bed, you must be assured that they are sound asleep before you can exit. You also cannot disturb the bed, because doing so may wake anyone in it up. Risky, so only do so if you know it's safe. Also, if you are spotted underneath of a bed, good luck trying to escape.


The leg room underneath of office desks can also make decent hiding places. If you hide here, make sure it appears as though nothing is underneath from in front of it. Don't worry about the back, because if you are seen here, there isn't anything you can do to hide anyways.


You may also choose to hide beside doors. Do so in a manner that makes the door cover you when opened. Your best bet is to sit down, and hope the person does not look there when they come through the door. If they do spot you, which is probable, at least you can toss them aside while they are surprised and make a quick escape.


If the house has two stories, hiding upstairs is a safe precaution. That is because most utilities are downstairs. Try to find an extra room that isn't used much, and enter.


Another classic, you may wish to hide in a closet, using the clothing to hide you. While you can hide easily enough, the problem here is that many closets are loud upon opening, making an exit difficult without alerting anyone.

When hiding in a room, make sure you do not trap yourself, having a way out, and make sure you can conceal your identity if you are sighted. Looking upon the hiding places above, it should be obvious that getting trapped in a room and having to hide is a situation you should do your best to avoid.

Hiding in the Background

Even if the opposition has good lighting and a good view, you can still fool them by making yourself as small as possible. You do this by being far away. Even if a police officer has his spotlight on you at 100 yards, if you are curled up into a ball he may very well pass right over you. Similarly, if you are in dense grass and the light is spotted at you, he will only see the grass, not you, because you become part of the background. Becoming the background is important sometimes, and ties in with hiding in nothing.

How to Travel

Different land and objects dictate a different way to travel. Here is a guide for when to use each kind of traveling, and how to do it.

Upright Walk

Walk upright when you have low risk of being seen, such as in fields, near your house, or inside a building when the area has been secured.

Bent Knee Walk

Walk with your knees bent to keep a low profile. Walk on your toes to distort your foot print, and walk silently. This may seem like overkill, but there's no good reason not to. Remember Rules 2 and 4. When crossing gravel and other loud terrain, slowly place your feet forward, on the ground, then lean forward, placing your weight onto that leg. This will help muffle the sound a little.


Rarely needed, only use when you are in safe areas and need to gain a little extra time on your watch. You may also opt to jog if you are crossing an area of high traffic, such as a main road.


Only sprint when you are being chased or are in danger of being seen by a vehicle. Otherwise, the noise and the movement will draw all sorts of attention to you.

Crawl - Hands and Knees

Crawl on your hands and knees when you need to keep a low profile, yet retain decent speed. Be aware that doing this will often leave marks on soft ground

Crawl - Elbows and Legs

Gives you a lower profile, but slows you down. To do this, lay down in the prone position, and push yourself forward using your elbows and your feet.

Crawl - Prone

Lowest and slowest. Lay flat on the ground and slowly inch forward using your legs and forearms. Necessary only when traveling under objects or behind grass.

Bent Ankle Walk

When crossing snow, you need to try to fool any potential investigators as much as possible. To do so, one idea is to bend your feet inwards and walk on the outsides of your ankles. Doing so leaves only lines in the snow as opposed to actual prints. Also good for loose dirt. Remember that a footprint draws attention, but a few lines will not, so try not to create a trail while doing this.

No matter how you walk, you should always try to follow some basic rules, such as what type of ground you walk on. Try to stay on grass, asphalt, and other ground that is quiet. Silence is of the highest importance, with softness coming next. Soft ground retains prints. Stay out of gravel, snow, and loose dirt whenever possible. Also keep an eye out for twigs, dry leaves, and dog shit. Annoying, for obvious reasons.

Friday, July 9, 2010

Shadow living - Part 5 - Who you may run into & what to expect

The Enemy

As an operative, it is important to remember that you are not alone in the shadows. You will inevitably run into other people, and every one of them offers their own unique problem. Here are the assorted types of people you will find, what problems they present, and what you can do to avoid trouble.


"Bacon" comes in two flavors - city and state. The city bacon is more of a concern as there is usually more of it in any given area. When dealing with the bacon, there are numerous things to keep in mind.

The first thing is that their sirens attract all kinds of attention. Anyone awake nearby may decide to look around to see what is going on and possibly give some tips to the police. The second is that they have spotlights. This can eliminate just about every hiding tactic not involving solid cover, and can reach out a ways. Don't bother trying to outrun them, dodge them. The third, and most serious threat, is they always have back-up. They can use this back-up to have other units cut you off, K9 units hunt you, or even have a chopper follow you if they see you as a serious threat. The key to defeating their network is to act quickly and efficiently before they can react. This is a major reason for all of your escape plans you made. The fourth threat is that they generally have superior equipment. This gives them a technological edge over you.

First of all, any vehicles you see prowling around small areas late at night are subject to suspicion. Assume any vehicles you see fitting this profile wreak of bacon, unless you personally learn otherwise. When stationary, remember that the police will probably have their lights off. Even if they are required to keep them on in your area, assume the worst. Because of this, scan every alley and driveway carefully before, during, and after entering their vicinities.

If they suspect something may be wrong in an area, but aren't sure, they may decide to use their spotlight. In this case, you must get out of the line of sight. Anything solid will cover you, including tall grasses. Do not try to run away however, because if the spotlight hits a running person, the bacon will surely report to the entire hog and pursue.

If you trip an alarm, bacon is also the first thing you will "smell". Almost invariably, this smell will come from the front of a given area, eventually drifting to the rear. Hence, if you "smell" bacon, move away from the front of the area and escape quickly.

One thing you have working to your advantage is that the majority of the time, the bacon is exposed to lights, making dark areas good hiding places. Use some common sense and adhere to Rule 7 at all times, and the bacon shouldn't become a problem.


Guards are hired hands who either patrol an area or survey a specific location. They may or may not be armed, but they will always be trouble if they spot you. Assuming the worst is especially important with these. They are generally not as observant as a police officer as they rarely see any action, and thus tend to slack off on the job. Operative at your best around these guys, and there should be no problem.

If you spot a guard patrolling an area, keep track of his movements and keep a note of when he comes by. Also take note of what items he is carrying, especially a weapon or radio. Keep in mind that even if you see no weapon, that doesn't mean it's not hidden. If you see a radio, and have you own 2-way, you may get lucky and be able to pick up on the talking.

Stationary guards are often found sitting around doing something of their own, and glancing at monitors now and then. While seemingly harmless, you must consider two things. The first is that the times he looks at the monitors is random, he could look at any given moment. The second is that if you cause enough motion on screen, he may pick you up with his peripheral vision, sound an alarm, and/or confront you personally. Remember, when dressed in full gear that you aren't approached like a normal pedestrian, you are approached as though you are a combatant. If he decides to chase and you suspect he's going to tackle you and mace/stun gun you, get cheap! Throw some powder or soil at his face and leg it in the opposite direction, or push him to the ground and run past him if you've blinded him.

Also keep in mind that guards are not tied directly to police, but they can get a hold of them quicker than your normal civilian. This means that if you confront a guard, you can expect the boys in blue to arrive shortly thereafter.


Anyone who isn't actively looking for intruders could be considered a civilian. While they usually aren't found walking the streets at night, they are often inside of their homes, doing something like watching TV. The good news is that you can use this to your advantage since their windows will act as mirrors. The bad news is that these are usually the paranoid ones who will call the police and/or grab a weapon to fight you. If you may eye contact with anyone, and you have a good reason to suspect that they have seen you, abort your mission immediately, take evasive action, and make your way discreetly to base.

If a civilian attempts to confront you, run, even if you know you can defeat them in a fight. You can try to throw something at their face to blind them, and then run if you can do so without risking yourself in the process.

As civilians are tuned in to their surroundings, they are a constant threat. Even asleep, a noise may wake them up in a panic.

Party Animals

At night, there are always parties. People running around, getting drunk, having fun. The problems are that they sometimes stumble outside to puke, piss, sleep on the lawn, etc. Don't interact with them. You may think it's fun and games walking up to a drunkard and making them think you're a ninja, but what happens if they go inside and describe you to a sober person? They might take a look outside, or they may laugh, but Murphy's Law may bite you in the ass if you assume nothing of it. Remember Rule 10 and remain out of sight.

Alternatively, parties may present a good target of opportunity. You may find a lot of unlocked vehicles parked outside, which may harvest more than you can carry. You may also get lucky and find some booze for celebrating later, or use as a trade item if you aren't into that sort of thing.


Should you begin to operate where a group of people hang out, intentionally or unintentionally, then you most certainly should learn how to deal with them. Don't bother trying to interact with them, I highly doubt they'll be up for talking to you. If they notice you, they may mistake your intentions and try to attack you. In this case, run and hide where they cannot find you, fast! Try not to bother them, because you don't want to waste the time involved. If they are in an area you need passage through, either wait them out or go around them. Female operatives - you have some obvious problems that guys don't around certain groups of people.

Alternatively, you could consider this a possible target of opportunity. You may be able to skim some good information off of them or watch them stash something. Just make sure you don't go after the stash until you are certain they have left the area. Unlikely, but possible.


If you run in the shadows often enough, you may happen upon another night operative running around. First and foremost, you can evaluate yourself using him or her. If the operative cannot see you, you are doing a good job. Similarly, since you can see the operative, try to figure out why you were able to, and add his or her mistake to your list of don'ts.

Now, once the shock of seeing someone else running around has subsided, you may be tempted to contact them. This is a huge no-no. You might think "Hey cool, someone else like me", and try to hit them up for a discussion on ops. Consider though; you have no idea who they are, and what they will do. Even if you do know them, they may not recognize you. They may decide to attack you, make a huge racket to get you busted, turn you in, whatever. Furthermore, you are taking jobs away that he or she wants, and the same applies visa-versa.

If you run into someone, the first thing you should do is remain still and observe. If the operative does something stupid like puts himself into a position that is slow to get out of, hurl a rock into a window near it and get his ass busted! Remember, he's messing around where you don't want him, and he's likely to get caught. Take advantage.

If the operative has seen you and will not run from the scene, a fight is possible. If he doesn't have a firearm or other powerful ranged weapon, a great way to break the ice might be to, once more, send a rock through a nearby window. That will make him run for sure, and you should follow suit.

For the operative feeling bold, a devious plan may be to track him around and wait for him to try to enter somewhere. When he does, hide as close to the entrance as possible, and mug him as soon as he comes out so you can take all of his goods. If you want to really be a pain in the ass, you could take a chance and drag him in front of a window, break it, cause a commotion, and haul ass. As long as he wasn't obviously mugged, it will look like he broke in and tried to leave by jumping out of a window, but he somehow got knocked out. Either way, the cops aren't going to care. If they think he had a partner turn against him, your info can't come out anyhow.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

How to make a single shot (disposable) shotgun

For instance, if you required an untraceable shotgun, be it for personal defense or a covert mission, you don't want to jog over to your neighborhood gun shop and pick up a Mossy, duly reported to the FBI. And if you wish to be truly circumspect, even buying from the back of an old Buick might not be a good idea. Such an informal dealer is at a disadvantage in dealing with the police - if his customers can find him, so can the uniforms; and they hold the leverage of being able to arrest and prosecute him if he fails to cooperate. (Fences have the same weakness, of course.)

So a purchase may be a bad idea. In such cases, you should consider making your own shotgun. One process that requires no particular skills, save the ability to use glue without permanently embedding yourself in your project and a drill without inflicting lethal perforations, is as follows:

Single-shot, Disposable Shotgun

Materials Needed:

Shot shell

Paper strip, approx. 2" wide, several feet long (or multiple strips)

Paper strip, approx. 3-4" wide, 2-3' long: Alternate - wooden dowel, diameter equal to shotshell

Elastic band (rubber band or inner tube rubber)

Nail (16P is fine)

3 to 5 magazines (yes, the kind you read)

Glue, tape, twine

1. Obtain a shot shell of charge and load suitable to your application. (This device will be rather less than a full length long arm, but a bit more than a pistol; a 12 gauge may be more than you wish to deal with here, although I have seen it done.) Start by taking a long strip of paper, and gluing one end to the length of the shot shell. The edge of the paper should be flush with the rim at the base of the shell. Now you should roll the paper tightly around the shell. The intent is to increase the diameter of the shell case to equal the rim diameter.

Whether or not the paper also extends beyond the crimp of the shell is immaterial. When you have finished rolling, glue the paper end in place so that it will not unroll.

2. For the second part of your tool-of-defense-to-be, you have some options. One is to take a 16 penny nail and wrap paper around it (as with the shell above), but leaving the nail loose within the roll so that it can freely slide through the center of the roll. The roll should equal the diameter of the rolled shell assembly, and be a quarter to a half inch shorter than your nail. Before making the final few revolutions around the nail, stretch a strong rubber band (or possibly a length of rubber from a tire inner tube) across one end of the thick-walled tube which you are forming. Glue each end in place, and continue with the last few wraps of paper.

Alternatively, instead of forming a tube of paper, you may wish to use a wooden dowel with a diameter matching the shot shell assembly. In this case, you will need to drill a hole the entire length of the dowel. The hole should be just wide enough to allow the nail to slide freely. Again, you will need to stretch an elastic band across the hole at one end.

The nail is going to be the firing pin for our improvised shotgun. While not absolutely required, it is best to file the point down until it is slightly rounded rather than sharp. Slide the nail into your tube/dowel so that the point extends beyond the end of the tube and the nail head is covered by the elastic band. This is your firing assembly.

3. Now place the firing assembly end to end with the shot shell assembly so that the nail point contacts the shot shell primer. Gently press the firing assembly flush against the shot shell base and tape the two sections together. Note that at this point you can now fire the shot shell by pulling the nail back against the tension of the elastic band and releasing it. The safety challenged among us should also note that this device has no safety; be careful.

4. Next, take the magazines and sanitize them. By this, I mean to be sure you haven't left an address label with your name and address on them. It would be a terrible shame to go to all this trouble to construct an untraceable weapon only to leave the police your calling card.

Once that is done, roll a magazine very tightly around the shell and firing assembly. The firing assembly should be flush with the edge of the magazine, with the firing pin/nail extending beyond it. By now, this rolling process should quite familiar to you. Tape or glue the magazine in place so that it will not unroll. Repeat this process with at least two more magazines. Do not roll so many magazines that you cannot get a firm grip on your new weapon. After the final magazine, wrap the roll with tape or twine.

You have constructed a shotgun. Compared to a steel-barreled gun, this one is very short range; say, mugger-range. (And won't that mugger be surprised when the supposedly helpless bookworm takes him out with an armful of reading material!) As stated before, it is also a single-use device; once fired, you merely dispose of the incriminating evidence by tossing it into a convenient dumpster, or even by incinerating it.

When firing, particularly with a larger gauge shell, be prepared for significant recoil. Grip the weapon firmly. Bracing it against a hip may well be advised. Point it at the offending aggressor, pull back your firing pin, and release. In addition to the recoil and muzzle blast to which you may already be accustomed, you can also expect a shower of confetti. Think of it as a celebration of the elimination of a goblin. But also remember to carefully brush any off of yourself.

Perhaps it has occurred to you to wonder if this process can be applied to other cartridges than only shot shells. It most certainly can. I believe that you might find such a gadget scaled down to .45ACP (or even .38 Special) to be quite manageable and concealable. With a little imagination, you can probably think of several occasions when a disposable zip gun which the usual metal detector will overlook could be handy in the extreme. Trips through federal buildings and airports spring to mind. Be creative.