Monday, March 29, 2010

My Favoriate Ebooks - ask me for a copy

Deep Winter

The Mist - Stephen King

We Interrupt This Program


PAX Americana


How to be invisible (out dated)

The Day the Dollar Died -

These can be found on the web...or you can just ask me for a copy.  If I know how to post them on this blog, I would.

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Learn how to suppliment your food storage

There have been many posts on other blogs about food much, what type, etc...what I have not seen lately are suggestions on how to suppliment your current food stock.  You must learn how to grow your own food and trap game animals.  I knwo it sounds revolting to trap, skin, clean, and eat a tree rat, Racoon, or rabbit; but, have  you learned how to do it yet?  Have you trapped your own squirrel, racoon, or rabbit?  Have you determined what works and what does not?

When your stored food is gone; whether eaten, destroyed, or are you going to feed yourself, your family, and use to trade?

Get outside, make a trap, dead fall, or noose to see if it works or not...trip it yourself, dont kill an animal just for fun.


I just read this post by Possum Living:

Friday, March 26, 2010

Make Money at Storage Facility Auctions

Buying and selling is a time honored way of making a living. However, like any profession, success in merchandising requires following some fundamental rules. The most basic of these is to obtain items of good quality that people will actually want to purchase, and to acquire them at a low enough cost to ensure adequate profit. Once this challenge is met, the entrepreneur’s success is largely assured.

I am not talking about raiding dumpsters, joining wholesale clubs, or fencing stolen merchandise. I am discussing public storage buildings, which you can find in virtually any community coast to coast. Millions of individuals and businesses use these facilities to store all sorts of goods. Many of them eventually fall behind on their monthly rental bills. After an extended period of non-payment the storage building owner can legally claim the items. He or she will often hold periodic public auctions to sell off the goods in order to recoup a portion of their lost rent.

The result of all this financial fickleness is that large quantities of perfectly good things end up in rented storage buildings. Then death, financial hardship, or just plain apathy or forgetfulness kick in, and the items are forgotten. This is where the real opportunities for you come in. The units range in size from twenty five square feet up to several hundred. Some are even climate controlled, and may contain freezers full of fresh meat or other perishable goods. Chances are, there is such a place near you right now, packed with all sorts of treasures waiting for you to claim them.

The first step in taking advantage of this opportunity is learning when the auctions in your area take place. Get a copy of the local Yellow Pages directory and look under “storage facilities.” Contact the offices. Make sure you do not call storage building dealers, the people who actually sell the little sheds you see in back yards nationwide. You want the businesses that rent their own units on their own property.

Ask for the owner or manager, and tell them you want to know when the next auction is going to be. Some places hold them on a regular basis, and can give you the exact date and time. Others hold them “as need arises,” but do not currently have one planned. Put these on a call back list, and check with them once a month or so. Still others put a notice in the newspaper when the time for the auction

Bidding at auctions is an art form unto itself. You may wish to just watch others at the first two or three you attend, just to get a feel for how much items go for. Keep in mind that your primary goal is resale. Don’t bid $300 on a building full of goods that you can only make 50 bucks on.

The auctioneer will open the buildings one at a time to let the bidders see what they contain. If most or all of the goods are in boxes, then he or she will break these open and display their contents to the crowd. Bring a pad and pen and try to estimate the approximate resale value of the merchandise. Then place your highest bid at no more than 50 percent of that amount. If in doubt about the profitability of the contents, then don’t bid; there is always another day, and you don’t want to get stuck with tons of unwanted junk filling up your storage area.

You want to look the stuff over as thoroughly as possible to make sure that rain has not leaked in and destroyed things. If you smell mildew or see evidence of water damage, then pass that building up. Mice and other rodents sometimes get in, but they rarely do much damage, except to clothing and stored food. (Speaking of clothing, check the pockets and linings of any you get. Old people hide money in them. Wads of cash have been found stuffed in shoes and mattresses). Storage buildings with shingle roofs and heavy, tight-fitting doors do the best job of preserving stored items.

Yard or garage sales are another way to rake in the dough. If you have a home with a good sized yard or a carport or garage, this option can work for you. Make sure you have plenty of change for your customers, as well as bags for their purchases. Advertise the upcoming sale in your local paper, put up signs in the neighborhood stating the day and address of the sale, and be outside early, ready to do business—yard sale fans are early risers. The old pros at this business set their merchandise out the night before, and cover it with tarps, so they do not have to set up the morning of the sale.

You can make a hefty profit by selling at these auctions, but you need to know what you are doing. Find out when and where they are held by checking your Yellow Pages, local papers, or just asking around. Go several times before you decide to sell. Watch the bidders and the auctioneer. Talk to the manager and find out what the terms are; usually the house will get a portion of whatever money you make. Retail auctions can be great fun as well as lucrative.

In many parts of the country it is legal to set up an impromptu store front along the roadside, in front of abandoned stores or in the hinterlands of large parking lots. Cops will not hassle you as long as no one complains. In the south it is common to see people selling produce, clothing, decorator rugs, stuffed animals, or other goods right off the back of their trucks or out of a van. The rule of thumb is this: if you see others doing it without being persecuted, then you can do it too. Gas stations and convenience stores that have gone out of business are great locales. Bring your stuff and set it out for customers to see. Leave plenty of parking room, and expect many people to drive past your setup while checking out the goods.

Other venues include pawn shops, web pages, and collectors. It is amazing what people will collect. Campaign buttons, old books, walking sticks, teddy bears, shaving razors, beer mugs, and even prepaid calling cards have their enthusiasts. Read a few books on antiques and collectibles to become conversant on the subject. Internet sites like E-bay are great as well.

No matter how great a sales person you are, you will eventually end up with some goods that just will not move. You can often sell these in bulk to other dealers at a low price. Charities like the Salvation Army and Goodwill will give you a receipt for donated items that you can use to reduce your taxes.

America is a fantastic place to live, with wealth literally overflowing its containers. It is quite possible to live off the fat of the land, even in these days. Storage building auctions offer fantastic opportunities for the entrepreneur.

Stink & Smoke bombs


You can purchase buteric acid at any chemical supply store for "laboratory experiments." It can be thrown or poured directly in an area you think already stinks. A small bottle can be left uncapped behind a door that opens into the target room. When a person enters they will knock over the bottle, spilling the liquid. Called a "Froines," by those in the know, an ounce of buteric acid can go a long way. Be careful not to get it on your clothing. A home-made stink bomb can be made by mixing a batch of egg whites, Drano, (sodium hydroxide) and water. Let the mixture sit for a few days in a capped bottle before using.


Sometimes it becomes strategically correct to confuse the opposition and provide a smoke screen to aid an escape. A real home-made smoke bomb can be made by combining four parts sugar to six parts saltpeter (available at all chemical supply stores). This mixture must then be heated over a very low flame. It will blend into a plastic substance. When this starts to gel, remove from the heat and allow the plastic to cool. Embed a few wooden match heads into the mass while it's still pliable and attach a fuse.*

The smoke bomb itself is a non-explosive and non-flame-producing, so no extreme safety requirements are needed. About a pound of the plastic will produce thick enough smoke to fill a city block. Just make sure you know which way the wind is blowing. Weathermen-women! If you're not the domestic type, you can purchase smoke flares at Army surplus stores.

*You can make a good homemade fuse by dipping a string in glue and then rolling it lightly in gunpowder. When the glue hardens, wrap the string tightly and neatly with scotch tape. This fuse can be used in a variety of ways.

You can also find other interesting stuff on YOUtube

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Here is another reminder for ya....

Volcano's are active in how many countries now?

The economy is taking a dump and economists are predicting Hyper-Inflation (folks, that means $20.00 for a chickin in the store which now costs about $3.00...or try $10.00 for a loaf of bread).

People are livid about this ObamaCare...can we see riots???

Countries are facing droughts and other weird weather...creating more food shortages (remember the whole rice crisis last year?

How about a war with Isreal and Iran coming soon?  Why do you think there are sooo many armed forces in Afghanistan right now?

When that war breaks out....who is going to protect us from all the NATO troops currently stationed on many of our military basis???? (Yea, the ones coming for your guns and ammo).

Oh yea, let's not forget the earthquakes on the West coast recently.

Did we forget about the Swine Flu, Bird Flu, and SARS already?

As a result of all this, if water stops flowing, here are the events you can expect to see in some of the worse-off cities:

* Looting of all the grocery stores by the second or third day (remember New Orleans?)

* Minor outbreaks of violence during the looting. Shop owners, for example, may attempt to defend their shops with firearms (ala L. A. Riots)

* Mass exodus of residents from the city in search of water

* Ransacking of any houses or farms within a gas-tank radius of the city, presumably by desperate people with guns

* Mass traffic jams on the outbound highways as people run out of gas and abandon their vehicles (if bad enough, this could actually block the highways and trap people in the cities) (Remember Hurricane Rita?)

* Mass outbreak of water-borne diseases as people use streams and rivers as both a water fountain and a bathroom. People crapping upstream are going to infect the people drinking downstream. Very few have any kind of water filtration device. That last point is really critical. Once the water flow stops, disease is going to strike.

Practice make perfect...don't wait to be in a situation, before you decide you have to learn how to take care of yourself and family.

Have you begun scanning your important docs to a external hard drive yet??

In August 2009, I wrote a little ditty about backing up your important documents to an external hard exerpt is below...uhhhhhhh, have you begun that yet?

Think of all the documents you may need, such as stocks, deeds, vehicle titles, passports, insurance policies, Social Security Cards, membership forms, wills, contracts, and agreements. It is a good idea to have the originals of these documents stored in one location, and copies stored in another. You may wish to get a fireproof safe, but if you do not have one you might consider placing all your important papers in a zip storage bag and then place that bag in your freezer. This will protect them in the event of a fire, but be sure the plastic bag does not become torn over time.

Many people keep a recent photo of each family member, as well as photos of pets with their important papers.

Have you begun to put some emergency cash aside yet???????

Perhaps the most important documents to have on hand during an emergency is cash. After a natural disaster such as an earthquake, hurricane or flood, many of the convenient ways we spend and get money no longer exist. Automatic teller machines, credit card networks, even the banks themselves are often inoperable. It is then that we return to cash only transactions, and unless you already have some money saved in a safe place you will be unable to make purchases.

More about food's all begining to look the same

Comfort Foods: The below list contains 60 different food items. However, you should also purchase some Kool-Aid, Tang, Coffee, Tea, Soft Drinks, Beer, Wine, Miniature Tootsie Rolls, Caramels, Assorted Hard Candies, or whatever else appeals to you. These are referred to as "comfort foods" and they can definitely help make the hard times more bearable.

Quantities: You should have enough food for each member of your family for at least six-months. If you are an experienced farmer or rancher living on your own land, then you should also have enough seeds to replenish your food supplies on an annual basis. You will also need your own canning jars and lids or a "root cellar." If you have no previous experience with farming then you would probably be better off with a two or three-years supply of food for each family member.

Appetite Fatigue: Your emergency food supply must have a reasonable variety of different food items. If you only have a limited number of different food items to eat then appetite fatigue will result in your starvation even though you have food. Your mind and your body will simply reject the thought of eating the same food again and again and again. If you doubt the truth of this statement then conduct a simple test. Pick your favorite four food items that you enjoy eating more than anything else and then only eat those four food items for one-month. Before one-week has passed you will be repulsed at the thought of eating those foods again. Try it and see if you can force yourself to only eat those four foods for an entire month. Appetite fatigue does not occur when there is no food available. For example, long-term war prisoners in a POW camp will generally eat almost anything. Each day they do not have the option to eat or not eat. On many days they get nothing to eat. When they do get fed there is never enough food to satisfy their hunger and therefore they will eat almost anything at any time and be grateful for whatever it happens to be. Appetite fatigue occurs when you have food to eat and you have the choice to eat or not eat. This is one of the reasons old people in a retirement home usually lose weight and their health. The cafeteria serves the same basic bland food over and over again.

Therefore you should have some reasonable variety in your emergency food supplies

Substitutions: If you are allergic to a food then do not buy it. If you do not enjoy the taste of one of the above recommended foods then do not buy it. Feel free to substitute any food item and name brands you prefer. However, you should try to keep a reasonable balance of meat, carbohydrates, vegetables, fruits, grains, and dairy products. For example, instead of buying 48 cans of Fruit Cocktail you may wish to buy a few cans of apples, peaches, pears, cherries, and pineapple based on your own individual taste preferences. The important issue is to have some canned fruits in your food storage plan.

The same concept applies to vegetables. The above list recommends 180 cans of mixed vegetables, 96 cans of beans, 12 boxes of instant potatoes, 48 cans of beef stew (meat, potatoes, and carrots), and 48 cans of chili with beans. If you like the canned "Mixed Vegetables" then purchase them. But you could purchase cans of corn, peas, spinach, or any other vegetable you wish. However, you should consider the nutritional value of each vegetable by reading the nutrition label. For example, green beans cost almost the same as all the other vegetables but they have very few calories. Therefore, green beans would be a poor choice from a nutritional value standpoint. There would be nothing wrong with having a few cans of green beans in your pantry for variety but the number of those cans should be very small compared to the other vegetables. However, most other canned beans have relatively high levels of protein and calories. You should also adjust the recommended quantities based on your family's actual needs. If you have several family members who drink a lot of milk, then you should purchase more dry powdered milk than suggested.

Calories: An active adult engaged in normal physical labor can burn 3,000 calories per day without gaining weight. However, an adult who has a desk job would gain weight. Therefore the concept of a "One-Year Food Supply" is based on the average physically active adult. If you were not very active during a disaster event then you could easily reduce your calorie intake to 2,000 calories per day and still maintain your weight. Therefore, the above food reserves would last a non-active adult for 18 months with no weight loss. If you wanted to lose a little weight, then the above food could last for 24 to 30 months. (Note: For an investment of approximately $1,694 one adult could stay alive and in good health for two and one-half years. Or the above food could feed two adults for 15 months.)

Brand Names: All the above foods are generic brand or store brand except where brand names are specifically indicated. For example, in my opinion Armour Brand Beef Stew is pleasant to eat but the cheaper brands are disgusting. Therefore, purchase and eat one can of each of the above food items to see if the flavor of that brand is agreeable to you before you purchase a year's supply of that item and then discover it tastes horrible.

Taste is a very personal experience. Two people can have entirely different opinions about the same exact food. The limited numbers of brand name foods I recommend are based on my individual taste preferences and I do not have any financial interest in any of those food companies. You will need to make your own decision about which brands of food you prefer.

If you are already happy with a specific name brand then it would probably be a better investment than a generic brand you are not familiar with. However, if there is a big price difference between the brands, such as 52 cents for the generic and 94 cents for your brand, then it would be a good idea to buy one can of the generic brand and take it home and eat it to see how it compares to your preferred name brand food item.

Although all this info you read about food storage looks the same what is important is that you begin stocking up...

What does one year supply for one person look like???

The following retail Cost of a "One-Year Emergency Food Supply" is based on prices as of January 4, 2010. At the beginning of 2008 the retail Cost of the "One-Year Emergency Food Supply" was equal to $1,385 on January 9, 2008.

The total cost of the following one-year emergency food supply increased in price by 15.3% or $212 in twelve-months from January 9, 2008 ($1,385) to January 3, 2009 ($1,597). The total cost of the following one-year emergency food supply increased in price by 6.1% or $97 in twelvemonths from January 3, 2009 ($1,597) to January 4, 2010 ($1,694).

Quantity         Cost
70 Pounds     $42    Long Grain White Rice in 10 or 20 pound Bags
70 Pounds     $24    Whole Wheat Berries or Flour (Not self-rising)
30 Pounds     $14    5 lb. Bag Corn Meal
36 Boxes       $36   16 oz. Box Spaghetti Noodles (Angel Hair or Thin)
36 Boxes       $18     7 oz. Box Macaroni and Cheese
4 Boxes         $13    42 oz. Box Quaker Quick 1 Minute Oats
4 Boxes         $10      5 lb. Box Quaker Quick Grits
4 Boxes         $ 9     32 oz. Box Aunt Jemima Buttermilk Complete Pancake/Waffle Mix
48 Cans         $72     6 oz. Can Bumble Bee Brand Tuna in Oil
24 Cans         $49    12.5 oz. Can Chicken
12 Cans         $32   16 oz. Can Dak Brand Canned Ham
24 Cans         $56    12 oz. Can Spam
24 Cans         $11     5 oz. Can Vienna Sausage
24 Cans         $72    12 oz. Can Roast Beef
48 Cans         $44     15.5 oz. Can Sloppy Joe Mix
48 Cans         $109   24 oz. Can Armour Brand Beef Stew (with Potatoes & Carrots)
48 Cans         $69     15 oz. Can Chili with Beans
96 Cans         $65     15 oz. Can Beans (Assorted Different Varieties)
180 Cans       $140   15 oz. Can Mixed Vegetables (Note: Green Beans have few calories)
12 Boxes       $30      32 oz. Box Instant Potatoes (Add water only preferred)
48 Cans         $60     15 oz. Can Fruit Cocktail
24 Cans         $13       6 oz. Can Tomato Paste
36 Cans         $35     26.5 oz. Can Hunt's or Delmonte Spaghetti Sauce
12 Cans         $9        4 oz. Can Sliced Mushrooms (not pieces)
12 Cans         $14      10.75 oz. Can Cream of Chicken Soup (To eat if you get sick)
12 Boxes       $197      64 oz. Box Powdered Instant Non-fat Dry Milk
24 Cans         $23      12 oz. Can Evaporated Milk
3 Boxes         $15       32 oz. Box Velvetta Brand Cheese (short shelf life)
4 Jars             $38       34 oz. Jar Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
4 Cans           $17        3  lb. Can Crisco Shortening
12 Boxes       $23       1 lb. Box Butter (Shelf Life is short unless Frozen) (No Margarine)
12 Cans         $36      8 oz. Container Hershey's Cocoa Powder
8 Cans           $13      16 oz. Can Hershey's Cocoa Syrup
6 Boxes         $ 6        16 oz. Box Corn Starch
25 Pounds     $15        5 lb. Bag White Granulated Sugar
12 Pounds     $11       1 lb. Box Light Brown or Dark Brown Sugar
12 Pounds     $11       1 lb. Box Confection Sugar
12 Boxes       $17      20 oz. Box Brownie Mix (or Cake Mix)
6 Jars             $9       18 oz. Jar Light Corn Syrup
6 Bottles         $15     36 oz. Bottle Log Cabin Syrup
6 Jars             $42     24 oz. Jar "Sue Bee Brand" Clover Honey
12 Jars           $24     18 oz. Jar Peanut Butter
12 Jars           $13     16 oz. Jar Jelly or Preserves
24 Pkgs.        $12     5/16 oz. Package Hodgson Mill Brand Yeast (Store in Ziplock in Freezer)
12 Cans         $14     10 oz. Can Baking Powder (Store in Ziplock Bag in Refrigerator or Freezer)
12 Boxes       $6       16 oz. Box Baking Soda
6 Bottles        $27     2 oz. Bottle Vanilla Extract
48 Each         $12     Beef Bouillon Cubes
48 Each         $12     Chicken Bouillon Cubes
24 Pounds     $7       4 lb. Box Salt (Morton Brand Canning and Pickling Salt) (Pure Salt)
12 Jars          $12      2.6 oz. Ground Black Pepper (or Whole Peppercorns) (Walmart)
12 Jars          $6        3.12 oz. Onion Powder (Walmart)
2 Jars            $1       0.9 oz. Oregano (Walmart)
2 Jars            $1      2.5 oz. Garlic Powder (Walmart)
2 Jars            $1      2.37 oz. Cinnamon (Walmart)
1 Jar              $1      0.4 oz. Parsley Flakes (Walmart)
1 Jar              $4     1.75 oz. Cayenne Red Pepper
2 Jars             $9     2.62 oz. Cream of Tartar
2 Bottles         $4     15 oz. Bottle Lemon Juice (Short shelf life)
1 Jug              $3     1 Gallon Jug Apple Cider Vinegar
------ ------ ------ ------

Totals = $1,694 One-Year Emergency Food Supply for One Adult

When/if you do actually decide to begin stocking up, you also need to consider where you are going to secure all this stuff.  Not only that, but you also have to consider not keeping you eggs all in one basket...divide you food stock incase your house, shed, or other storage unit gets broken into or destroyed in some manner.

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Make your own fire starters

This picture shows the materials that we used to make fire starters. These are a used carboard egg carton, parafin wax and wood shavings. The only item involving any cost is the parafin or canning wax. Old candle stubs will work for a free solution. The wood scrapings are left over from shaping an axe handle, by scraping with a sharp blade - but any dry scraped wood would work. Paper from a shredder, cut crosswise into small pieces also works fine. People who want smaller fire starters, can just fill the hollows in the egg carton less full, or collect some condiment containers from a fast food restaurant.

The wood shavings are put into the egg carton, and they're pressed into the holes as firmly as possible.

Melted wax is poured into the wood shavings, and enough is used to soak the cardboard too, so that it stays waterproof. We melted the wax in a canning jar in the microwave on high for five minutes, but this could lead to a fire if not watched, and so heating the wax container in a pot of boiling water is better. Safety first, people - hot wax hurts!

you have to use enough wax to soak right through the egg carton, as shown here.

We did a test on snow at -15C. You'll notice that the wind put out the tea candle. The single segment of egg carton firestarter could not be put out by the wind, and burned for over ten minutes with high heat.

You will need to use some magnesium shavings to get it started. While this firestarter will start easily with magnesium, cotton baton soaked in petroleum jelly - it's hard to start on its own with just a ferrocerium rod.

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Earn Extra Cash - create a webstore and sell stuff for free

"eCRATER is both a free web store builder and a free online marketplace. If you are a seller you can create your own free online store in minutes. If you are a buyer you can browse and search among millions of products."

Expedient Oxygen Absorber

An expedient oxygen absorber for a 5 gallon storage container can be made by placing a golf ball size piece of steel wool and a tablespoon of salt inside a paper napkin and placing it in the container. The salt will absorb the residual moisture and the steel wool will naturally absorb the oxygen.

Start your seeds in ZipLock bags

Peat pods on sale

Plastic bags

Marker to label the bags with type of seeds


Better Shooting by B.R.A.S.S.

The acronym B.R.A.S.S. stands for:

Breath control





Let's look at each of these elements individually.

Breath Control

We all know how hard it is to shoot a good group, or even hit the target sometimes, if we are breathing while we are pulling the trigger. When you breathe in, the abdomen expands, which can push the arms up and off target. When you breathe out, the reverse happens. The way to compensate for this is to take a deep breath, release about half of it, and fire your shot. If you are not under any time constraints, you can do this between every shot. If time is a factor, you may have to fire multiple shots on the same breath. If you start to see stars, or your vision starts to go dim, you might want to let that breath out and get another.


The more you relax, the better you will shoot. I have seen people try to stiff-arm their weapons to eliminate recoil instead of going with the recoil and it just doesn't work. On the other hand, you don't want to go all limpy wristed with that new .44 mag you just got, unless you like the idea of a large knot in the middle of your forehead.

There is a happy medium. Grip the weapon (we are referring to handguns here) in a firm but not choke-the-life-out-of-it grip. Keep the elbows unlocked, with the strong side arm a little straighter than the off side arm. Push forward with the strong hand and pull back with the off hand to establish some isometric pressure. Place your index finger print on the trigger, and you are ready to go. Remember, the more you relax, the better you shoot.


Aim consists of sight picture and sight alignment. Sight alignment is placing the front sight in proper alignment with the rear sight. When looking down the sights of your handgun, you should see a square "U" shaped rear sight with the top of the front sight even with the top of the rear sight. There should be an equal amount of space to the left and right of the front sight in the "U" of the rear sight. Sight picture consists of maintaining proper sight alignment, and placing the top of the front sight on the target. You should be able to see the front sight clearly and the target should be a little fuzzy. You can switch your focus from the front sight to the target to make sure you are still lined up while taking up the slack and squeezing your trigger.


Most handguns have a certain amount of slack or slop in their triggers. You will need to slowly put pressure on the trigger until you feel this slack is gone. Then re-check that you are still on target and continue the squeeze. Different weapons have different amounts of slack, so find out what yours has and learn to take it up before firing.


When firing any weapon except a shotgun, you want to squeeze, not jerk the trigger. Jerking causes the sights to stray from the target, and causes you to miss. After you have taken the slack up and checked your sight alignment and sight picture, continue to gently squeeze the trigger. The exact moment the weapon fires should be a surprise to you. Make sure that you place only your fingerprint on the trigger, or your trigger pull will not be straight back, and will cause your shot to go to one side or the other.

Hopefully this will help make your firearms practice more accurate and therefore, more enjoyable. Remember, practice doesn't make perfect, Perfect practice makes perfect. Don't learn any bad habits and you won't have to unlearn them later

Remember...practice while you have don't want to learn AFTER the SHTF.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Long Term Ammo Storage

There has been much debate on what is the best way for long term storage of ammo, and while I can’t say it’s wrong to place your ammo in a bucket and suck out all the air and replace it with nitrogen I can say it is a waste of valuable resources. The rest of us just need to know what is the best way to properly store ammo so that it doesn’t degrade over a period of time and that it functions as designed when put into use. Shelf life refers to how long an item can remain in storage and still be functional. Well all military small arms have an indefinite shelf life. This means as long as it is properly stored it will never go bad.

Military cartridges (bullets, rounds, ammo) are designed so that they can withstand storage temperatures from minus 65 degrees F. to 122 F. They are made for soldiers to use in battlefield conditions under the most horrible conditions conceivable and still function. The manufactures, OLIN, Winchester, and Remington, know this and they also know they will lose a big fat Government contract if they don’t pass this criterion.

Small arms should be good from anywhere from 6 months to 18 months before you need inspect it. If the ammo has some corrosion on it take some copper wool or steel wool and take it off; then it’s good to go unless it is to the stage of pitting then get rid of it. Now most ammo comes in a wooden outer container with metal inner packs that holds the ammo.

We store it on at least two inches off the floor. It is inspected every five years and then only ten percent is checked for defects and then thrown back into storage for another 5 yrs. (if nothing is wrong).

So now what can you do as a civilian to store your ammo? Your number one enemy is moisture; as long as you have a waterproof container you are fine. Try and keep the cartridges in the original packing and try and keep away from metal to metal contact. To ensure that the ammo has no moisture I throw in a couple of dehumidifier packages. This is strictly optional as we don’t even do that in the military. Whether its military ammo you purchased at a gun show or 22 rounds from K-mart…it’s all the same.

Before you store it make sure it’s clean, dry (and wiped off if you touched it) and that’s it! Wow almost too simple. You don’t need to vacuum seal it, and you don’t need to store it at any particular temperature just keep it dry and out of the elements and leave it alone until you are ready to use it.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Things to do this month - March

___ 1) Try to use cash only for the next week. See what it’s like to be untraceable.

___ 2) Sign up for a self defense course (karate, krav maga, etc).

___ 3) Install a hidden safe in your home and use it.

___ 4) Update your Will, Living Will and Power of Attorney.

___ 5) Try bartering…join the cashless economy.

___ 6) Check out and participate in the many online survival/preparedness forums.

___ 7) Make sure all of your immunizations are updated.

___ 8) Set up a ghost address.

___ 9) Read and learn the Constitution, Bill of Rights and your state’s Constitution.

___ 10) Vary your schedule on a daily basis; make yourself difficult to track.

___ 11) Get your HAM radio operator’s license.

___ 12) Develop an alternate power plan in case you are without power for days or weeks.

___ 13) Back up all of your computer files on a jump drive and keep it in a safe place.

___ 14) Collect business cards, you never know when you will need them as cover.

___ 15) Write out your complete medical record and store it in a secure place.

___ 16) Do something that scares (or severely challenges) you.

___ 17) Get your free annual credit report ( and correct any errors.

___ 18) Donate to a good cause (money, food, clothes, etc).

___ 19) Increase your vehicle’s security (alarm, tinted windows, GPS tracker, etc).

___ 20) Eat at home and cook all food from scratch for one week.

___ 21) Increase your physical exercise to at least one hour per day.

___ 22) Buy and learn how to use a GPS device.

___ 23) Play a game of paintball.

___ 24) Get all of your car’s spring maintenance done (change oil, tune up, rotate tires, etc).

___ 25) Attend a convention (on survival or preparedness topics).

___ 26) Learn sign language.

___ 27) Change all of the door locks in your home if this hasn’t been done recently.

___ 28) Change all of your PIN numbers.

___ 29) Practice how not to be a target for kidnapping/assault/robbery.

___ 30) Review all of your insurance plans (life, health, auto, home) to ensure adequate coverages.

___ 31) Learn how to throw a knife.

Tomatoes Plants - Blooming but no tomatoes? Thump 'em!

You might try mulching heavy or find some way to keep them cooler. Tomato pollen won't work right over about 92 degrees so you get no tomatoes. If you want a real good crop, just go out and occasionally "thump" the plants when they are blooming. Not hard, just enough to make the pollen dislodge. (Maybe "tapping" is a better word :) When I do this, the tomatoes line up like grapes in a bunch.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

How long are you supposed to boil water for drinking??????

I was talking with a friend of mine about prepping and he asked how long he should boil water before drinking it....uhhhhhhh...I dunno...was my answer.  So I did some research to find out.

As some of us know, boiling water is surest and most effective method of destroying microorganisms including disease causing bacteria, viruses, protozoan’s, and parasites.

Modern filtering devices and the chemical treatment of water come in a poor distant second to the ancient and almost foolproof method of boiling water to make it safe to drink. And importantly to the survivor, the boiling of water requires no special apparatus, training, or difficult to find chemicals. The means to boil water for safe drinking are usually close at hand:

• A source of heat

• A vessel to hold the water.

Commonly Stated Water Boiling Times

I am always hearing different amounts of time that water needs to be boiled to kill disease organisms. Recently I perused various publications put out by the government and trusted health organizations. What is glaringly obvious is they disagree on the length of time water should be boiled to make it safe to drink.

Common water boiling times that are stated include:

• “Boil water for 10 minutes” is a common statement

• “5-minutes of boiling” is also frequently heard

• “Boil the water for 20 minutes”. Would there be any left?

• “A rolling boil for 1 minute”. Is it enough?

• “When at high altitudes you need to boil water for twice as long”

Modern filtering devices and the chemical treatment of water come in a poor distant second to the ancient and almost foolproof method of boiling water to make it safe to drink.

Which of the above statements are true? None. That’s right. Following any of the above advice for the boiling times of water is a big waste of fuel (and a waste of water if you are short on water cannot afford to lose any to evaporation).

Throughout the world whole forests have been cut down for firewood in order to boil drinking water. Hikers and mountaineers have used up precious fuel boiling water for inordinate amounts of time. In a survival situation you cannot afford to waste valuable resources and energy. With all the bad advice around, many thousands of trees and other fuels and a huge amount of effort have been wasted. See

Correct Water Boiling Time

whole forests have been cut down for firewood in order to boil drinking water

The correct amount of time to boil water is 0 minutes. Thats right, zero minutes.

"According to the Wilderness Medical Society, water temperatures above 160° F (70° C) kill all pathogens within 30 minutes and above 185° F (85° C) within a few minutes. So in the time it takes for the water to reach the boiling point (212° F or 100° C) from 160° F (70° C), all pathogens will be killed, even at high altitude."


"What is not well known is that contaminated water can be pasteurized at temperatures well below boiling, as can milk, which is commonly pasteurized at 71°C (160°F)...".


What is not well known is that contaminated water can be pasteurized at temperatures well below boiling

The fact is, with a water temperature of 160 to 165 degrees F (74 C) it takes just half an hour for all disease causing organisms to be inactivated. At 185 degrees this is cut to just a few minutes. By the time water hits its boiling point of 212 F (100 C) - plus or minus depending upon pressure or altitude - the water is safe. Even at high altitudes the time it takes for the water to reach a rolling boil and then cool means you can safely drink it.

Lacking a thermometer to measure water temperature, you only need to get your water to a rolling boil. By that point you know the water is hot enough and that the disease organisms in your water were destroyed quite some time earlier. End of story, turn off the heat. Stop wasting fuel. Let the water cool down. Your water is safe to drink!

Situational Awareness really can give you the edge - from

Long Term Situational Awareness Can Give You The Edge, by Todd S.


I’ve been fortunate to live in the same general area for my entire adult life, the Rocky Mountains of Utah. I am very familiar with the area made more so by various employments, a variety of interests all centered around the outdoors and twenty years of being a Scout Master. Being familiar with my surroundings for a long period of time increases my knowledge base of useful things to know, information unique to my immediate surroundings.

I have always been curious and a great observer, of both people and things. Some years ago my brother mentioned something to me when we were talking about being prepared if anything big should happen. At the time he worked for a national car wash company, traveling around the region inspecting various car washes. He said he didn’t need to store a fresh water supply because all of the car washes have enormous tanks of fresh water underground; most have more than 2,000 gallons. People didn’t know this so he figured he could use these as a source for fresh water.

A light bulb went off in my head. This conversation was the start of what I call my Long Term Situational Awareness. I am always on the look out for information that could help me if I have to G.O.O.D. or heaven forbid if TEOTWAWKI happens; information, places and people that I store away in my data banks so I don’t have to figure it out on the run. For example the water tanks underneath car washes, I might have figured that out eventually, but now I know right where to head.

Here are some of the things I have made mental notes about that I think will give me an edge. Maybe you can keep an eye out for this stuff in your immediate vicinity. The longer you are in the same area, the more information you can collect. The more stuff you know, the better your odds are of getting out and surviving.

ESCAPE ROUTES: Where I live we our bound on the West by a harsh desert environment, not a good escape route. To the East are mountains, which I know intimately from hunting and camping, especially every paved and dirt road in an out of them for fifty miles. It would take several road blocks to prevent me from getting where I wanted to go if I choose to go that direction. This direction is my choice if evasion or defense is the highest priority.

There is only one North South freeway, which of course would prove completely useless. A bottle neck of both surface streets and alternate routes to the South make this direction a bad choice. To the North, a bottle neck of alternate routes is still passable but not ideal. A little known closed rail road line, (Google Earth is a great source to start looking for these kinds of routes.) is only blocked by a flimsy gate. It bypasses the bottleneck by twenty miles. A friend showed me this years ago as an access to some hunting ground. I realized its other potential as an escape route and have never forgotten it. If I have to bug out, I’m going north.

FOOD: We all know the grocery stores, convenience stores and restaurants will be looted first. I’ve noted several places that might be over looked at least during the first few days. I keyed in an idea several years ago that anyplace that serves meals to large groups of people will have stores of food.

There are two small convention centers within five miles of my house. They are not in a retail, shopping or restaurant area, they are in the office and business districts. I go to both several times a year. Every night of the week they cook and serve dinner for several hundred people. The convention centers have storage rooms and commercial kitchens that will probably be overlooked in the first few days [of a societal collapse].

Any place with a snack bar, especially in an overlooked area, is a great source for food supplies. I know of three indoor soccer arenas with snack bars. All are in warehouse and industrial areas. All of them have snack bars and I’ve noted where the storage rooms are for the snack bars. Two of the soccer arenas are on my bug out route.

The last several years I have seen an explosion of small gyms, many in strip malls and professional office districts. Nearly all of these small gyms have supplies of nutrition and protein bars, bottled water and re-hydration drinks. Most will be overlooked the first few days.

Most Boy Scout camps store and cook food for hundreds of people everyday. I know of at least a dozen scout camps along different travel routes.

We have three, regional food distribution centers. These will be hit hard, but I know where they are and won’t have to look for them in the telephone book. What might be overlooked are the restaurant food supply companies. Not only might their warehouses be missed at first, some people might walk right pass a SYSCO semi truck and not realize it is filled with food. One semi truck from a restaurant supplier and I’m set. I know the names of all the suppliers and their logos.

Fuel: Two miles from my home is a warehouse complex with over two hundred companies and a thousand semi-trucks, all with big fuel tanks, going in and out every day. It will obviously be looted, but it is so large the out lying trucks and smaller ware houses will go unnoticed at first.

Excavator companies and large construction companies often store their own fuel. I’ve hired several of these companies and have identified three that are located in areas that may be easily overlooked.

There is farmland all around me. Many farmers store fuel. This would be a last resort for me because they also have guns, know how to shoot, are willing to shoot and if any group will survive WTSHTF it will be farmers.


A few random notes I’ve taken over the years in case I find myself in TEOTWAWKI situation. I know where three large sheep herds and two large herds of cattle graze in the summer. I know where a high-fence elk hunting outfit is located with 300 head of elk. I know of three small residential subdivisions in the mountains that are self sustaining, on there own wells and solar powered. I know of three large snowmobiling lodges in the mountains that are self sustaining. They are virtually abandoned six months out of the year. I know where a small, private fish farm, surrounded by a hundred fruit trees can be found two miles past a locked gate. I know where all of the wildlife resources fish hatcheries are. I know where a rancher has sixty head of domesticated buffalo penned in a remote mountain valley.

All of these observations have taken no extra time and effort, simply the realization that someday I may need to know this stuff and it would be a good idea to remember them. Keep your eyes and ears open, you never know what will pop out at you if you’re looking for it. You never know what piece of information you store in your data banks will give you the critical edge.

JWR Adds: Most of the foregoing would only be appropriate in the aftermath of a situation with massive depopulation, such as a pandemic. In anything lesser, appropriating "abandoned" supplies would simply be unconscionable theft, because those supplies would still have rightful owners. There have also been several discussions in SurvivalBlog about the inadvisability of crossing private land that belong to someone else. Even worse is shooting someone's livestock. In essence, that is just a good way to get yourself ventilated, in the event of a societal collapse. I have posted this just to show SurvivalBlog readers one sort of threat that they will face. It is encapsulates the horribly astray and ill-advised "justified looting" mentality. Keep plenty of .308 ammo on hand. You may need it.

I really do hate pulling info from other boards, but I have to agree with this post.  As I am now working in Ass-Crack-Istan... I am awayls looking for stuff...places to hide if the base is ever over run, or where to find extra food and water if our supplies get blown up, or where to find life support equipment if I should ever need it...keep your eyes open at all time and be aware of your surroundings at all times.